As to the questions:
1) Yes the saw is set up right
2) Yes the alignment on the fence is right
3) The cuts were made on the opposite end and side of the same piece of red
oak, the only difference was the blade.
I will fully admit, I was extremely surprised.
Could it be that the Forrest blade was faulty? That is certainly possible.
For those who said, "Use the one that gives the best cut." That is exactly
what I am going to do - in fact the Forrest is on its way back to Amazon.
IF, repeat "IF," I were a production woodworker, knowing the testimonies and
reputation of the Forrest, I would have gone for a replacement. However, I
am a hobbyist. I enjoy the work and am learning all the while. That being
said, the C3 on the HF blade will probably last me as long as the C4 on the
Forrest blade will last those of you who do production work.
Lastly, it looks as if the HF blade is a good "learning blade" for those of
us who are just starting out and need something that will give a good cut,
but not gouge the wallet too deeply. Later, as we grow our skills and find
the need something like the Forrest, we can move up.
Thanks for all the comments.
Deb
Dr. Deb wrote:
Some time ago I asked if any of you were in a position to try a comparison
between the Forrest WoodWorker II and the Harbor Frieght blade (SKU 46231)
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...-bevel-design-
novelty-combo-blade-46231.html
Harbor Freight having the reputation they do for selling cheap tools, I
got no takers, and was not overly surprised.
SWMBO, gave me a "US Grant" for Father's Day and I put it back in the
deepest recesses of the wallet. Finally, I decided to take the plunge and
buy a Forrest WoodWorker II (40tooth, 1/8" kerf). So shopping around I
found it on Amazon for $107.00 and hit the "Order" button. The package
arrived today and, of course, I had to check it out.
After peeling the protective coating off it, I mounted it in my Ridgid
3650
tablesaw and made a couple of test cuts. I stepped back, scratched my
head
and said, "Hmmmmmm." So, I got a fresh HF 46231, mounted it and made a
couple of test cuts. Then I remounted the Forrest WWII, got a 7/4 piece
of
Southern Red Oak and did an an crosscut and an rip cut. Swapped out the
Forrest for the HF blade and made the crosscut and rip on the other end
and side of the same pieces of red oad.
Bottom line, the Forrest is going back. There was very little, if any
noticable difference. If there was a difference the HF blade gave the
better cut. On the first pass in the rip cut with the Forrest, I noticed
a
tooth mark, rather severe, so I moved the rip fence over 1/4" and recut.
It had the same thing, in the same place.
The HF blade is only C3, so it will need to be sharpened a bit more often,
but at $19.50, you can almost get a new blade rather than have it
sharpened.
To be very honest, I was extremely surprised. But, it is what it is.
As a disclaimer, the ONLY HF blade I would use is the 46231. My bandsaw
blades are Woodslicers, my router bits are all name brand. In other
words, I do want quality.
What I would really like to see is a lab test between these two. But for
my test, on my saw, in my shop, there is no justification in paying six
times the cost of the HF for the Forrest.
Deb