On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 13:45:04 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 7/20/2012 5:13 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:

So I got a 5/8" red oak dowel rod, cut some pieces, forstner-reamed 2 stile
holes out to 5/8, mounted the 2 oak dowels, cut off the other 2 and retested
the fitting of (particularly) the hinge stile and kickplate rail. Hoping it
would straighten out the "warp". It did not. The 2 oak dowels were good and tight,
too.

Red oak is _NOT_ a good choice for this purpose--it rots like crazy w/
any moisture at all. White oak would be ok, one of the nonporous
hardwoods (birch, etc.) or even pine would be far better choice.

It was idiot Homey Depot: all they had was oak. Normally I'd get birch.
It's about 40 mi. (round-trip) to a Rockler or similar.

Near as I can tell, the dowel holes in the stile in that location were angled,
resulting in the "warp". I reamed the 2 out as carefully as possible, but it
looks like I just duplicated the angle 'cause the result is the same.

I seriously doubt if the door originally was put together w/ out-of
alignment holes...if it were, then it would have been flat when new and
that's just not believable it wasn't...

That's what's nice about living in a free country: you are allowed to doubt
any damned thing you please.

I know of no way to drill the holes in perfect alignment with the rail.
The damned thang will NOT fit on my drill press.

If you've got a remedy to this problem, I'll be listening. Please to render
it in -detail- (don't just say "drill straight!").

That's _precisely_ why I kept telling you that one tool you definitely
needed was/is a doweling jig; it is not possible to drill into punky
stuff accurately freehand and damn near it even if the wood is good.
The difference in hardness between a dowel end grain trying to drill it
out will cause the bit to skate and if the dowel is gone but the wood
isn't really solid there just isn't enough resistance you can't feel it
if you're not perfectly aligned.

I dunno how to make a doweling jig. To po' me, a doweling jig is a
tool thatcha buy from a store. If ya have the $.

I'd guess your best bet now would be to glue dowels into and fill the
tight holes you have made and start again w/ a doweling jig.

No!

Again as
I've pointed out numerous times, use a smaller bit initially than the
final size to ensure you're accurately centered.

I did that this time, but freehand.

The jig will guide the bit allowing the holes to be parallel to the
faces; perpendicular to the edges.

If you do the infill, you can go back to a half for a final which the
jig you already have may be able to accomodate.

No!

If not, I posted a link
to one that does have 5/8" capability.

Wanna loan me the $60+?

As another said (as well as I suggested it was likely worth the effort
to make one for the spacing as well as for the alignment ) if you
have a drill press you should be able to fabricate one from hardwood or
metal (or a combination of both) that will do the job.

I gotta 13" press, but I dunno how to make more than a horse's
ass doweling jig.

Did I mention this is a job that requires patience yet?

I got a certain amount. But I'm damned if I'm married to this hideous POS.
Remember I toldya the top rail wouldn't come off the hinge stile? You said to
proceed, so I did, and positioning the 2 married pieces (30+ lbs) to do any
serious work (i.e. drilling) is ridiculously difficult. I think maybe you
forgot about that "leetle deetail"?

I need to get it as good as practical and slam it back together, run it
up the flagpole, see if anyone recognizes it's a door. :-)

Seriously, you wanna weigh in on the Q re the super-slow glue?
I'm gonna need it!

Thx,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."