On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 11:31:42 -0500, dpb wrote:

Methinks y'all tend to get a little off-course. Maybe the following will
help.

1.) Nothing has been glued.
2.) The last set of pics were with 1 pony clamp across the mid-section.
3.) The best nutshell description of the wood is "just badly weathered".
4.) The "warp" *appears* to be caused by mis-alignment of the dowels down
at the hinge-stile/kickplate rail joint. The stile mates about 1/16"
above the rail.
5.) I have no "Magic Wand". I lack both the equipment and skill of dpb.

In particular, I have no dowel jig that handles this size dowel. Doubt
if I can make/buy one.

I'll see if I can pick up 5/8" dowel and drill bit today. If so, I'll
experiment on one of the splintered dowels.

On Thu, 19 Jul 2012 22:56:59 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 7/19/2012 10:27 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
...

You really think Titebond III would hold if I get it all properly clamped?
There will be a lot of pressure on the warp joint. How fast does it set up?
...

Not unless you have well fitting joints, not for any length of time, no.
It (and very little else other than some specialty epoxies) is not
intended for filling gaps and has little strength as a material
itself--it glues by forming bonds across (very) small distances.

It's what I've told you before about the dowels--if they're not solid
and into solid wood then the job is to get back to solid material one
way or another and fit what is needed to do so.

You've really given no indication of just how bad the material
surrounding them is--if it is just crumbly or rotted completely away,
your only real choice is to get back to solid material and fill in w/
new or go to some of the restorative products. At that time, given
their cost and that this is not a door of any architectural significance
you're best recourse may well be to go to the replacement.

The replacement is always an (undesirable) option.

Wish could get hands on feel for just how good/bad it is, but one can
judge only so much by photos alone, sorry...
===========================
On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 11:31:42 -0500, dpb wrote:

stiles. I'm half afraid of doing much of anything with the dowels
for fear of making things worse. A couple have already splintered.

Last point first--what can you make worse? You didn't have a working
door; unless you fix it you still don't have a working door...

I could waste a lot of $ and time ...

That they tend to come out of the rails and not the stiles is owing to
that the in the stile they're along/parallel to the grain; in the rail
it's almost entirely end grain. That is much less strong.

Unless the matching hole on the other side for the end that is
protruding fits press-tight, you've not got it ready for reassembly yet.

To repeat yet again, you've got to have a snug fit for them to be ready
to accept glue and when that happens and they're lined up properly then
the rail will go back in place and you won't have any sag. If you note
carefully, you'll see there was no glue on the coping joint
surfaces--that's end grain on the stiles and wouldn't hold any way so
they don't even bother. It's the dowel joints that have to be solid in
order to put the thing back together again.

I repeat--until you have those joints tight one way or another there's
nothing to be gained by trial assembly other than you can verify you
have clean surfaces.

It all hinges on whether you have enough solid material left to be able
to do that.

Don't worry about saving the dowels at all -- I generally just saw 'em
off unless I'm reusing a particular one and use the dowel jig and drill
'em out. Again, use a pilot bit first to ensure alignment to keep them
centered.

You wanna elaborate on that last statement?

Depending on what you have to work with, on something like this if there
are multiple identical stiles it can even be worth the time/trouble to
make a jig that has the spacings for them already in it rather than
doing each one individually.

Easier said than done.

P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."