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grumpy grumpy is offline
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Default Central A/C brands available for DIY installation


wrote in message ...
On Jul 17, 3:05 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 17, 8:20 am, "
wrote:





On Jul 16, 10:46 pm, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-


finger.net wrote:
On 4/29/2012 12:54 AM, SRN wrote:


"ls02" wrote in message
...
What realiable good quality central A/C brands are sold directly to
homeowners and available for DIY installation? Can I buy any of them
online?


Check eBay....there are many sellers on there with tons of feedback you can
review. A proper installation is much more important than who the
manufacturer is.....


How true, I've seen inexpensive mid efficiency properly installed
Goodman systems outlast and outperform improperly installed high
efficiency American Standard and Trane systems. It can make you mad
like seeing a gasoline fueled Bentley blowing smoke out the tailpipe
and Bondo all over the body, not located in The Middle East. ^_^


TDD


I've only seen Rheem and Goodman offered for sale
by regular online stores. Be aware of warranty issues,
as you may not have the same or any warranty as if you
bought it and had it installed from a local dealer.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Goodman is the easiest to get your hands on without a contractors
license. Carrier and Trane both control their wholesalers pretty
tightly. Goodman is actually a decent product these days. I don't
know about the r410a but you can silver solder r22 systems using
propane instead of brazing them and they will hold up just fine.


Yes, Harris Silverbrite 8 can be used.


While maybe surprise to some of you Tech. out there

It does not matter what Refrigerant you are using any contamination

In any system is not good. As for type material you are using to install it is

all how good tech. you really are you can use silver sillfoss, Silverbrite or

staybrite all are suitable on any of these refrigerants it is up to tech. matter of

preference. Dealers are all scumbags when it comes to tell you truth they love

to sell You what are they dealing with? As for vacuum it is necessary to pull

good vacuum on any system "but you are not pulling vacuum because you are

using Refrigerant #410, but type of oil it is in system, 410 refrigerant is not

any difference then #134 or 404, however it becomes more critical if system

is to be used at lower temperatures. The oil as POE which is use with all new

refrigerants' once gets contaminate "Virtually" it can not be clean or taking

moisture out of system without changing of oil.



While it is still a good idea to purge with nitrogen it's not as
critical with propane as it is when brazing. You are not going to
produce as much copper oxide inside the line with silver solder.


That is true too. As long as you're good at soldering
and you don't overheat the joint the probability of
forming a lot of crud inside is low. But how lucky do
you feel compared to the cost of some nitrogen?



A
vacuum pump is still a pretty good idea though.


Good idea? It's essential.



Some of the old guys
did used to charge by cracking open the low side to the atmosphere and
letting the refrigerant purge the line but that's sort of guesswork
and likely exceeds the de minimus release rules as well.


That's for sure. Those old buys were hacks. Gases don't just go in
and come out like a sausage. They mix.
Moisture inside the lines boils off in a vacuum. With
the bleed method above, it stays in the brand new
system. And any contamination is apparently worse in the case of
R410A systems too.



And a set of
guages is pretty much a must. Though the other old trick I heard of
was charge using vapor until the low line feels like a beer just out
of the fridge.


That trick is another hack.


If your plan is to get a pro to do the start up after
you do the install find the pro willing to do that before you embark.
Not many are.- Hide quoted text -

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