On Jul 18, 3:42*pm, Puddin' Man wrote:
On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 04:57:42 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:





On Jul 18, 2:24*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 17, 11:21*pm, Puddin' Man wrote:

I made another pass thru the Restore today, and came up empty.

Also made concerted effort to split off the hinge stile from the rest and
partially failed. It more-or-less separated itself at the bottom, and the
intermediate rails separated, but the stile wouldn't come free of the top rail.
The lock stile did separate on the other side of the top rail. The pattern of
the joint is very intricate, and it doesn't wanna break. What did they use to
bind such stuff back in 1955? Glue? Epoxy?? What (if any) chemical can I use to
break the joint???

It would seem if the stile is seperated everywhere but
at the top, you could pry it apart enough to get a saw
blade in to cut *the dowels off no? *Then drill them out.

-Not- what I wanna do!



Y'all may or may-not be interested in the simple fact that I've been
studiously trying to avoid the business of "trying to stuff a square
peg in a round hole" which many responses have suggested. It looked
really simple when I started ("just replace the flogging door, f'crissake!").
Now it looks a mess.

Do they even *make* exterior pre-hungs measuring 30 x (80-?) x 1 3/4"? Would it
*really* fit 32 x 80 opening?? How expensive???

If the existing opening is 32x80 and square, why isn't
buying a new door only, not pre-hung, possible?

I looked (Lowes, HD, etc) and couldn't find one suitable.
Closest I came was a steel-skin from HD.

I know
you've indicated you think thickness is a big issue,
but everyone here has told you it isn't. *At least not
from anything we've heard so far.

For crissake, it depends on hinge placement.



Last time I checked one side of the hinge goes on
the new door, at the edge. The other side of the hinge
goes on the door jamb, or in your case the door
rough opening because you have no jamb. Exactly like
they are on there now. I can
take any door in my house out and replace it with
a door that is 1/2" thicker. Everyone else here
has told you that it's not a problem either. You have
to move the stop molding, but I do not see why
hinges are an issue.

It would also be helpful if you could explain why
EXACTLY you think it won't work. First we just got
"I can't find a door that's suitable." Then upon repeated
questioning in an attempt to help you, we get
"All the new doors are thicker". Now it's on to
"For crissake, it depends on hinge placement."

Is it that hard to explain what exactly you think
the fitment issue is that prevents you from using
a door that is thicker?