On 7/18/2012 3:32 PM, dpb wrote:
On 7/18/2012 2:33 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
....
I make up a block of the matching cope and use it; lacking a shaper in
your case I'd make a poorman's substitute caul by gluing a piece of ply
(or better yet hardwood if you can machine something the right
thickness) that just snugly fits into the groove and is long enough to
keep the rest of the block from dinging up the cope. Make it 8" or so
long and 5=6" wide so you can hang onto it while hitting. Now you can do
more than just tap w/o danger of beating up the profile. Again alternate
between wiggling, driving, cussing in that order. 
I used "long" too many times in the above---the idea is to put a piece
of the same thickness as the panel groove on a block to use as a caul
against which you can pound away with vigor w/o marring the profile of
the coping.
That can either be milled into a solid block or glue onto a block. It
needs to be _wide_ enough to stand proud of the profile when bottomed in
the groove; the whole block then needs to be long enough to spread the
blow out a little and big enough overall to hang onto and hit solidly in
place...
At the upper in is good where you need it as you've got access through
the removed lites.
Oh, another variation of the fulcrum in the crack--make up a longer
version of the above and place it across the door from one side to the
other and use it the same way as you bring the rails together at one end
it will separate them at the other. This is easiest if you can get the
vertical window muntin out by any chance w/o breaking it. (You will be
keeping track of which pieces-parts goes where won't you? I knew you
were
).
--
You're a long way from needing to do so yet by the looks of it, but if
one can get enough separation to finally get a hacksaw blade between the
end of the stile and the rail you can just go ahead and saw the dowels
off and then go after them...
Again, those joints that don't give are still solid enough they're going
to be ok w/o coming apart.
What tools did you use to clean out the joint surfaces? Aside from
a paint scraper (obviously needed)?
Really that's probably about the worst tool for this job--too big and
clumsy. I use several old chisels of various sizes (moderately sharp but
not dovetail joint cleanup sharp) pocket knife, dental tools/picks,
small rifflers, scrapers, whatever seems to fit the particular
situation. BTW, the chisels are mostly used in scraping, not so much as
trying to pare. Surprisingly, if you have an air compressor, high
pressure air w/ a very small nozzle tip is extremely effective including
lifting pain if there's the least gap under edge. Wear good eye and ear
protection for sure!!!!
....
I've not used a story stick. When I do a search, all I'm getting is
info on commercial products. If you can point me to a site where
they build their own, it'd help.
Nothing fancy needed at all...just a couple pieces of 1x, preferably
reasonably straight and flat and 1-1/2 - 2" wide will work just fine.
Cut an arrow pointy end on one end of each. To use, you just put the
ends in the corners and mark where the end of one is on the other. Make
a note as to what that mark measured; and you can reproduce that length
simply by lining the marks up again. You can get as sophisticated as you
want w/ making them to slide together w/ locking knobs, etc., etc.,
etc., but all that's really need is the two pieces and optionally a
small c-clamp. Nothing fancy at all...
....
Well, I'm working on it. Haven't ripped anything yet. But it's
frustrating. The wood exhibits unpredictable behavior, not
something I'm used to.
Old material tends to do that. Again when you're cleaning, try to scrape
more than pare to avoid digging...
I spent a significant period of time restoring ante- and reasonably
closely after post-bellum homes in Lynchburg, VA, years and years ago in
another life. I'm well acquainted w/ the frustrations (but the joy of
bringing back a hand-shaped panel door w/ 16" wide single-board panels
to it's original glory is well worth it...your door isn't a classic but
when it's done you'll get the same satisfaction!
....
I can work out one side on maybe 1/3 of the dowels (so far). They
measure about
..599 to .623. Some fragment when I remove (see photo). Tend to come
loose on
the rail (not stile) side. They are 4.5 +" long.
....
The only doweling jig I have won't handle this size.
There's a tool you are going to need--unless you can accurately
fabricate one other than simply reaming out the existing holes it's
impossible to keep stuff lined up well enough by hand.
If a dowel is solid and it doesn't want to come at all, I'll generally
leave it on that end on the assumption if it ain't broke now it's not
likely going to any time "real soon now".
....
Glad you are "staying aboard". I'll need all the help I can get before
this is over.
....
Truthfully, it looks like you're making good progress; just keep after
it. I don't think I've mentioned that it does take patience, have I?
--