On 7/18/2012 2:33 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
....
I had figgered on breaking all joints. It now doesn't look practical.
Often isn't (or needed)
Now, just work (gently so as to not screw up the cope cuts any more than
can avoid) to clean up all the surfaces of the old paint, dirt, etc.,
etc., until you're back to an original surface.
Any tips you can relate about "work (gently so as to not screw up ..."
would be much appreciated. I tap-tap with the mallet, and I grab
each piece in one hand and work back and forward, and that's
the end of my "technique".
I have yet to fully disengage a single piece. See photo.
Based on the first picture you're almost home...you've got the bottom
stile almost completely separate on the hinge side (lock side is covered
up) and you've gotten the joint broken and begun to move at the lock
side at the top. The intermediates have all moved quite nicely.
One thing that would help a lot would be if you had anything you could
use as a more solid work surface. If it were me, I would prefer at this
point to have the hinge side rail at the top clamped solidly to a fixed
surface so I could work specifically on the top rail lock side joint
more w/o everything else wanting (or, more precisely, being able to)
come along for the ride.
The working rocking is good, tapping is good, patience is better...
I make up a block of the matching cope and use it; lacking a shaper in
your case I'd make a poorman's substitute caul by gluing a piece of ply
(or better yet hardwood if you can machine something the right
thickness) that just snugly fits into the groove and is long enough to
keep the rest of the block from dinging up the cope. Make it 8" or so
long and 5=6" wide so you can hang onto it while hitting. Now you can
do more than just tap w/o danger of beating up the profile. Again
alternate between wiggling, driving, cussing in that order.
You're a long way from needing to do so yet by the looks of it, but if
one can get enough separation to finally get a hacksaw blade between the
end of the stile and the rail you can just go ahead and saw the dowels
off and then go after them...
Again, those joints that don't give are still solid enough they're going
to be ok w/o coming apart.
What tools did you use to clean out the joint surfaces? Aside from
a paint scraper (obviously needed)?
Really that's probably about the worst tool for this job--too big and
clumsy. I use several old chisels of various sizes (moderately sharp
but not dovetail joint cleanup sharp) pocket knife, dental tools/picks,
small rifflers, scrapers, whatever seems to fit the particular
situation. BTW, the chisels are mostly used in scraping, not so much as
trying to pare. Surprisingly, if you have an air compressor, high
pressure air w/ a very small nozzle tip is extremely effective including
lifting pain if there's the least gap under edge. Wear good eye and ear
protection for sure!!!!
....
I've not used a story stick. When I do a search, all I'm getting is
info on commercial products. If you can point me to a site where
they build their own, it'd help.
Nothing fancy needed at all...just a couple pieces of 1x, preferably
reasonably straight and flat and 1-1/2 - 2" wide will work just fine.
Cut an arrow pointy end on one end of each. To use, you just put the
ends in the corners and mark where the end of one is on the other. Make
a note as to what that mark measured; and you can reproduce that length
simply by lining the marks up again. You can get as sophisticated as
you want w/ making them to slide together w/ locking knobs, etc., etc.,
etc., but all that's really need is the two pieces and optionally a
small c-clamp. Nothing fancy at all...
....
Well, I'm working on it. Haven't ripped anything yet. But it's
frustrating. The wood exhibits unpredictable behavior, not
something I'm used to.
Old material tends to do that. Again when you're cleaning, try to
scrape more than pare to avoid digging...
I spent a significant period of time restoring ante- and reasonably
closely after post-bellum homes in Lynchburg, VA, years and years ago in
another life. I'm well acquainted w/ the frustrations (but the joy of
bringing back a hand-shaped panel door w/ 16" wide single-board panels
to it's original glory is well worth it...your door isn't a classic but
when it's done you'll get the same satisfaction!
....
I can work out one side on maybe 1/3 of the dowels (so far). They measure about
..599 to .623. Some fragment when I remove (see photo). Tend to come loose on
the rail (not stile) side. They are 4.5 +" long.
....
The only doweling jig I have won't handle this size.
There's a tool you are going to need--unless you can accurately
fabricate one other than simply reaming out the existing holes it's
impossible to keep stuff lined up well enough by hand.
If a dowel is solid and it doesn't want to come at all, I'll generally
leave it on that end on the assumption if it ain't broke now it's not
likely going to any time "real soon now".
....
Glad you are "staying aboard". I'll need all the help I can get before
this is over.
....
Truthfully, it looks like you're making good progress; just keep after
it. I don't think I've mentioned that it does take patience, have I?
--