View Single Post
  #61   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,845
Default Sagging Door (was "How difficult to "build" a Door") III

On Jul 18, 3:37*pm, Puddin' Man wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 23:24:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you want to stick with a 30 x 80 door, you'll probably need to
raise the header.


Exactly how tall is your RO? 80-? Is not a number.


It's 80". The ? was meant to represent the difference between
the pre-hung height and it's door height. Is this diff.
standard? What is it? 2" like the door diff.?

* P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."


If your RO is 32" x 80", I feel that you have at least 4 choices, all
of which I believe have been suggested elsewhere in this 3-threaded
monster.

1 - Buy a shorter door. As I said earlier, Therma Tru, amongst others,
makes doors that are 30" x 78". Since the standard for a RO is 2
inches larger than the door and jamb (although doors can be squeezeed
into a smaller RO) a 32" x 80" RO is perfect for 30" x 78" pre-hung
door.

2 - Buy a 30" x 80" door and modify the header. Either cut out 2
inches from the existing header, re-enforcing across the top if
necessary, or taking it out and putting in a new one. You will
probably have to modify the exterior of the garage somewhat also.

3 - Buy an 30" x 80" pre-hung door and trim it down. I've done it with
wooden doors and with foam filled steel doors. 20-something years ago
I cut 2" off the top of a foam filled steel door for my shop entrance.
I saturated the exposed foam with polyurethane and never looked back.
The door opens in, so the foam is never exposed to the weather anyway.
The cut is on the top, so it never gets banged and it's never dented.

4 - Buy a 32" x 80" door slab and hang it just like your exisiting
door, beveling whatever needs to be beveled to get it to close. If you
need to extend the framing on the sides to account for the hinges and
latch, do so.