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[email protected][_2_] trader4@optonline.net[_2_] is offline
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Default How difficult is it to "build" a door?

On Jul 11, 8:50*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 11, 8:13*pm, Puddin' Man wrote:





On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 15:43:50 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


On Jul 11, 3:39*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 11, 3:22*pm, Puddin' Man wrote:


"There is no frame around this door..."


First, let's make sure we are using the correct terminology. It's call
a "jamb", not a "frame".


Agree. *Normally you'd have framing consisting of 2x4's and then
a door jamb. *But it sounds like he has no jamb? *Which is weird
because then without a jamb on the sides you would have
exposed not only the 2 x 4's, but also the edge of the sheathing
on the outside, so how is that sealed against the rain? * And on
the inside, where the 2 x4 ends, you'd be seeing the edge of
the drywall or whatever the interior material is. *In other words,
you'd see what you usually see when you take off the jamb.
Can he tell us that is what he has?


That is essentially what I have. There are some 1 x 2 strips nailed
to the 2x4 frames -outside-, against which the door closes. Otherwise
it's all 2x4's.


Then what happens when those 2x4's meet the sheathing, siding, etc?
Same thing inside the garage? Normally those areas would be covered,
sealed against the weather by the door jamb and casement molding.
A couple of pics of this would be a great help in making suggestions.





30" is a standard door width and a prehung 30" door should fit in your
rough opening since it fit a 32" door without a jamb. The jamb will be
about 1 1/2" wide total, so you"ll have room for shims to square it
all up. Yes, you will lose 2" of opening and only you can tell us if
that will be an issue.


It's undesirable. Best to restore what they did back in '55.


What they did back in '55 was wrong. They hung a door slab in a RO
with no jamb. Why would it be best to restore what they did in '55? Is
Better Homes and Gardens coming to put your house on some historic
homes list? Oh wait...1955? I don't think so.


Agree. That door was installed incorrectly according
to not only the practices of 1955, but probably 100+
years before that. Sure, if it's something vintage that's
consistent with that period, then it's worth preserving,
but I'm not getting that here.

When I do repairs, if what was done before was
wrong, then if I have an opportunity to do it right, I will.
And in this case, from what I've heard so far, doing it
right not only sounds possible, but I suspect it's less
work than building a new door from scratch and will
produce a much better finished product.



So if you want to restore it back to what they did in '55, why can't
you just buy a 32" door and hang it the same way they did? This thread
has gotten so long that I don't recall if you ever told us why a 32" x
80" slab won't just fit into the opening. As far as I can tell, the
extra thickness of doors today should not be an issue since the door
opens in.

.....


I asked a few posts ago what the fitment issue was.
AFAIK, all we have to go on is this:

"What with the Big Heat, etc, it's not practical to repair the door.
Have been to Lowes, Restore, etc. Can't find suitable replacement.
How difficult is it to "build" a door? 32 x 80 x 1.25"?

I didn't pay much attention to the first part. But re-reading
it, if climate is the big concern, why not just wait
until Sept and repair the existing door?
Or, alternatively, take off the door, fix it in the cool
basement where he's proposing to build a door, and
put up a sheet of plywood temporarily to secure the
opening. It's just a garage entry door, so securing it
in that fashion should be easy.




Agree. *If I understand what he's saying, he has a 2x4 door frame
that is 32" wide. *A 30" door should then fit between the existing
framing.


No!


"No" to what?


I think we have a failure to communicate here.....



You said you have a 32" door. You said you have no jamb.

Therefore the width of your opening must be just a bit wider than 32"

A prehung 30" door requires a 32" rough opening to allow for the jamb
and some shims.

I ask again "No" to what?



One issue might be the height. Since you have no jamb, it's hard for
us to say whether an 80" pre-hung door with threshold and jamb will
fit. You may need to get a shorter door or one without a threshold or
adjust the header.


That's a good point. *The height could be an issue. *But it looks like
HD has one that is a 30X78:


http://www.homedepot.com/buy/doors-w...doors-front-do....


I just took measurements against one of these at the local HD this afternoon.
It's close but no cigar. And it's steel-skin.


How about telling us what "close but no cigar" means. Too big? Too
small? Too wide? To short? What exactly is the problem with a 30 x 78
prehung door.


If I had to guess, it's because his existing door has no
door jamb, no TRIM MOLDING and he's unfamiliar with
how a door is normally installed. So, he's looking for
something that has to fit EXACTLY to what's there,
instead of fitting in loosely in a rough opeing, then being
SHIMMED, which is what you do with a pre-hung.

I'd suggest he find some videos of how doors are
supposed to be installed online. Putting in a new
pre-hung and cutting some moldings sounds a lot
easier and more within the skill grade of a typical home
project than building a door. And in this case, it would
make what is apparently an oddball, half-assed door
into a normal one.