The "hump" has me puzzled. Does it look like a mirror of your sawblade?
If the blade flexes left as you begin, then settles, you'll get a broader
beginning until you get past the teeth. Twisted lumber tipping can
contribute to this, as can a non-straight fence or opposite side of the
board.

You sure you don't have blade heel? Do your setup with touch gages. As
someone else already mentioned, a combination square works well. Touch/no
touch, and light/no light are all you need for adjustment, the rest just
tells you how far.

"ken blais" wrote in message
news:lgodc.882$kM2.247@lakeread05...
Hi everybody...
Recently got a tablesaw (general) and bought a WWII blade to go with it.
At
first the blade kept burning wood, then i read the instructions that came
with the blade, they specify that the back of the fence should be about
.0001 further away from the blade than the front. Since i dont have
anything
that precise to measure with, I set the fence as parallel as i could get
it
(using a combination square, again, i'm just setting up shop and dont have
any fancy tools). I then ran a piece of 3/4 plywood thru. Yep. It burned.
so
i did 1/8 turn on the fence adjustment screw and ran again. Burned again,
but not as much. Repeated process until no burning. Then I ripped a piece
of
1x8 pine. no burns, but if you examine the cut by running your finger
along
the edge, you can feel a 'hump' near what would have been the part to get
cut first.