In article ,
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 01 Jul 2012 21:09:50 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
...
Any reason you can't use a regular endmill and tip the part 35
degrees
to cut the angle?
Ned Simmons

Or a standard, more acute angle like 60 degrees and tilt the blank 5
degrees?
http://www.endmill.com/software/Meli...nd%20Mills.pdf

One can, but there is no speed advantage over a straight endmill - the
setup time is the same.



Don't let them razz you too much about buying that cutter, yes there are
lots of other ways to do the job but if it matches your lathe bed and you
take good care of it then it will come in VERY handy over the years if
you
ever need to make a steady rest or if you ever want to adapt a old bed
turret from some other lathe onto it etc...

That's my thinking as well. And the endmills are on the way, so the
razzing is ex post facto.


One thing you need to realize, is that the pointy end has no surface
speed
and so you want to hog out most of the material first, using a regular
cutter, ALWAYS cuttting a small "relief slot" at the very center of your
vee
first..and only cut with one side or the other with your angle
cutter...otherwise, you'll have nothing but problems and you'll probably
even break the very tip off of it before you even finish your first
job...

Yes, and I notice that people rough the groove out first, unless they
are using a horizontal mill. If one is scraping, the slot is also
essential.


Something that's good to know, is the exact depth of the Vee on your
lathe,
this can be a hassle to initially determine, but once you've established
it
accurately, there is no end to the special tooling etc that you can make
up
to fit your lathe.

Clausing has published the exact dimensions of the bedway in relation to
the spindle et al, so no experimentation is needed. They also specify
the diameter of the rod to nest in the groove, and how much the nestled
rod must protrude.


The way I do this is with a test block in a mill--first flycut it flat,
and
then mill your vee depth to where you think it's close, but just a tad
bit
deeper. Then, set it on the lathe bed and check the gap with feeler
gages,
using trigonometry or cad to determine exactly how much more material
needs
to to be taken off your flycut surface in able to get a perfect fit...it
might take a couple of tries, but once you get there, you can use bluing
and
slide your test block on the bed, making sure you have a good amount of
contact area on both the vee and the flat...

After that, drop a pin in the vee and measure from your flycut surface to
the pin, writing down your pin diameter and height above flat, and save
this
info for future reference.

This sounds like a good approach.

Joe Gwinn

I would however, suggest make up a turret style micrometer stop instead.

--excellent where you have a number of parts to make and you're using of the
several aloris type holders on each one.

Also a good idea. There was such a device for sale on fleabay for ~
$500, but I don't know if it sold.

But first, I'll make a simple stop, for the experience.

Joe Gwinn