Door is sanded except for the areas bordering the trim i.e., small interior corners and
convex molding surfaces, of which there are many - cannot get the sanpaper in the small
areas without sanding down the edges.
What are your thoughts on the use of chemical stippers?
While the idea of using a finish removing chemical is not preferred - may be the only way
to get to clean wood.
Thanks again for all the great advice!
Regards,
Doug
"dadiOH" wrote:
Doug Hortvet wrote:
The Z Spar Flagship varnish and T10 thinner should arrive early next
week - then the work begins!
What make and type brush do you suggest?
One with the finest hair possible. Not black bristle. White bristle is
better, badger is even better. Best would be red sable (artist brush) if
they were available wide enough; if they were they would cost a fortune.
I like a brush that tapers at the end and with the bristles flagged (split).
Generally, the finer the hair the smoother you can apply the varnish. Of
course, I sometimes use a chip brush, depends on what you are doing, how
good a job you want and whether or not you are going to rub it down at the
end.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...Hair+Br ushes
http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Arti...AL/brshvar.htm
Reading other posts I know a natural bristle brush is required -
although am certain that not all brands of this type brush are equal.
Some brushes have the end profile of the bristle bundle cut an angle
- what is the purpose for this style?
That's a sash brush. Makes it easier to paint into corners.
What criteria determines the max. width of the brush?
The size of the area being painted. You wouldn't want to varnish a floor
with a 1" brush, right? And you wouldn't want to paint a 1 1/2" face
frame with a 4"brush (you could skew it though). For a door, I'd want a
brush narrower then the stiles; probably 3". If it has panels with fancy
edges a 1" would be nice too; however, I have a 1/2" red sable brush - had
it for decades - that I can use for that sort of thing.
Have fun and keep a wet edge.