RonB wrote:
I am building a couple of Adirondack chairs from Redwood. I found
some nice clear Redwood for most of the visible slats, arms etc.
Under-structure is construction grade Redwood. This stuff is hard to
find in Kansas.

I want to preserve the color and not let it gray out. I have googled
and found lots of recommendations for oils including teak oil and
others. So many variations I am about as confused as when I started.

That's because the manufacturers are selling snake oil. The preponderance
of the oil finishes are using boiled linseed oil. It protects well, does
darken as it ages. How much it darkens depends upon how much was absorbed.
You wouldn't notice the darkening on redwood assuming it is heart redwood.

Another often used oil is tung oil, comes from the nut of the tung tree. It
doesn't darken, is good stuff. There are other oils derived from trees
too...penofin uses rosewood oil.

Many manufacturers also include some varnish in their product. The names
that manufacturers give their products are frequently misleading (by
design); e.g., you can bet that anything that calls itself "tung oil finish"
is mostly linseed oil with a dollop of tung.

Personally, I am happy with linseed oil, tung if I want to be fancy. It is
more expensive to buy but can be diluted with paint thinner 3-4:1.
Regardless of what you use, expect to renew it as soon as water stops
beading.

--

dadiOH
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