On 2012-06-17, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

I remember finding a place which would happily sell me things
like the pulley halves, the motor rotor with shaft (with the old one
going to them as a core charge) the bushings, and various other things.
However -- it has been perhaps fifteen years since I got them, so I'm
not sure that the company is still around. (I'm also not sure who they
were, but they had a nice exploded view of the heads.)

IF not the same company (they were around 15 years ago),
Machinerypartsdepot.com now provides the same services, with the same
happy, helping style and documentation.

I knew about the channel/bolt in the motor shaft, but it was easier to
just put a scissor jack between ceiling and shaft (rather than making
another tool!), and use a large socket as a pressing arbor. Once jacked
down a fraction of an inch, there's a locking screw one can tighten to
prevent the pulley from pushing back against the snap ring.

BTW, Don, the motor is NOT "easier to get out" -- it's WAY harder. On
the "pointing down" manual series I and series II heads, the motor just
lifts up. If you have the clearance (you need about 4"), you can get it
out. On the CNC "pointing up" machines, you have to partially or
completely remove the head and spindle assembly to get the motor out.
Otherwise, it's trapped between the housing pan and the ram of the
machine. Also, the motor shaft is almost twice as long on the CNCs as on
the manual machines, making you have to "snake it out" rather than just
pull it clear. That's why I had to figure the strategy to tip the head
forward without craning it off.

FWIW, I think a head removal "jack" that mounts on the table would have
done OK, too, but then you have to remove two or three lines and cables
that pass through the ram. They are a MF to re-thread. My forearm won't
even pass through the draughts in the ram, so I have to use a long-reach
gripper to get those lines in and out. With my method, nothing needs to
be disconnected except the big AMP-connector cables and air lines to the
brake and spindle speed control motor.

Lloyd


By the way, the head is not that hard to remove, I have taken it off
twice already.

i