The Z Spar Flagship varnish and T10 thinner should arrive early next week - then the work
begins!

What make and type brush do you suggest?

Reading other posts I know a natural bristle brush is required - although am certain that
not all brands of this type brush are equal.

Some brushes have the end profile of the bristle bundle cut an angle - what is the purpose
for this style?

What criteria determines the max. width of the brush?

Thanks again for your's and everyone's very helpful comments - now I just have to not mess
it up!

Regards,

Doug



"dadiOH" wrote:

Doug wrote:
The application instructions for both Z-Spar's Captain's and Flagship
varnish state that wood in poor condition - which I believe is what I
have - should be coated same as bare wood after cleaning / sanding,
which requires the use of Pettit or Z-Spar Paste Wood Filler Stain on
open grained wood such as mahogany, oak, ash, etc., followed by a
generous covering coat of Pettit 2018 Clear Sealer and then the
Captain's or Flagship varnish.

Understand these procedures are intended for marine use.

Are they required / recommended for use on the exterior of a home
door?

The only purpose of wood filler is to fill the grain on wood with deep pores
such as oak, mahogany, et al.

The only purpose of filling the grain is to have a perfectly flat, smooth
surface so you can wind up with a baby ass smooth varnished surface. A
really good, high gloss varnished surface is a thing of beauty. One rarely
sees it because it takes a lot of work and time.

That smoothness can also be achieved - albeit, less rapidly - by applying
several coats of varnish, letting it dry *thourghly*, sanding until no
dimples from the recessed grain are visible and then applying additional
coats of varnish.

Paste wood filler is made from finely ground silica - silex - mixed with a
binder. If it is "natural" it has no or very little color as the silica
becomes transparent when top coated. Colors can be added to the paste wood
filler to stain and fill at the same time. Personally, I would neither
stain nor fill an exterior mahogany door. I would apply 4-6 coats of
varnish letting each dry enough so that it can be lightly sanded before
applying the next. If I wanted a superlative job (I wouldn't), I would let
the door dry for a month after the preceding; I would then sand til no sheen
was left and apply at least another 3 coats.
_______________

Not clear what is meant by wood in poor condition - my door has no
black areas, although the color is noticeably lighter in several
areas - in particular the bottom 8-10 in.

Uncoated...weathered...oxidized. Thorough sanding fixes it.
_________________

The application instructions also state - do not apply the varnish on
extremely humid days. This is about all we have in Houston this time
of year. Is not clear what humidity level is considered excessive.

Enough so the varnish doesn't dry. Don't know if varnish will blush like
lacquer, kinda doubt it. Don't apply in direct sun either.