View Single Post
  #15   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Martin Eastburn Martin Eastburn is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,013
Default What options for trailer floor

Be sure the under carrage is stout and not rusting. You don't want
to load up something and break boards.

Remember putting steel over wood might rot out the wood under it -

Rather than steel plate in places - put down heavy wood and then
overcoat areas or the whole with expanded metal. The heavy stuff
that will dry out from rain and provide traction on the smoothest
fork lift wheel.

Martin

On 6/10/2012 6:12 AM, DanG wrote:
On 6/9/2012 11:26 PM, Ignoramus9564 wrote:
We just stripped and sandblasted our trailer, it is 20k Cronkhite with
a 18 ft long bed. The wood on it was completely rotted and I am now
looking for good options. I want this trailer to haul forklifts,
machines etc.

What options do I have. 1/4 inch diamond plate is very expensive and
costs $10 per square foot. I would prefer something cheaper that would
last 5 years.

i



I would go back with wood. Steel decks are too slick and are prone to
dents and ripples caused by point loads. I've always used treated yellow
pine lumber and you will get well over 5 years. Trap both ends of the
planks under an angle iron rather than using screws at the ends of the
planks and don't get carried away with screws to allow the boards to
move. I use strips of 90# roofing stuck to the trailer iron with tar
where the boards cross sit to protect the trailer and the planks. How
thick was the original wood deck? I have seen some decks done with
bridge planks (+/- 3" thick). If you carry the same piece of equipment
repeatedly it may be worth putting some steel deck plates on top of the
wood deck where the wheels sit.