The application instructions for both Z-Spar's Captain's and Flagship varnish state that
wood in poor condition - which I believe is what I have - should be coated same as bare
wood after cleaning / sanding, which requires the use of Pettit or Z-Spar Paste Wood
Filler Stain on open grained wood such as mahogany, oak, ash, etc., followed by a generous
covering coat of Pettit 2018 Clear Sealer and then the Captain's or Flagship varnish.

Understand these procedures are intended for marine use.

Are they required / recommended for use on the exterior of a home door?

Not clear what is meant by wood in poor condition - my door has no black areas, although
the color is noticeably lighter in several areas - in particular the bottom 8-10 in.

The application instructions also state - do not apply the varnish on extremely humid
days. This is about all we have in Houston this time of year. Is not clear what humidity
level is considered excessive.

My plan is to leave the door on the hinges and cover the door opening with heavy plastic
sheet taped in place as a barrier between indoors and outdoors while the door is open.

Hopefully this will negate the effect of excessive humidity.

Looking forward to getting started and a much better looking door!

Thank You for your most helpful comments.

Regards,

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:

Doug wrote:
Thanks to all for the great advice!

I failed to mention that only the exterior surface of the door needs
to be refinished - which will likely also require staining, as the
lower portion has been exposed to water splashing off the front porch.

The area to be stained will have to be sanded to bare wood

As with the recommendation for varnish - is there a particular type /
brand of stain best suited for this application?

Why would you want to stain mahogany? If you think you are going to even up
different colors between the bottom, splashed area and the rest then think
again, you won't. Better to sand down the entire surface. If the bottom is
blackened because the finish had worn away, bleach it. With wood bleach
(oxalic acid).
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When selecting a kick plate - are there ready made kick plates for
standard size doors, or is it better to purchase a piece of brass
custom cut to size?

Yes, there are ready made plates.. Have you checked Google?
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What is the typical thickness of a kick plate?

Jeez, who knows? Somewhere between a RCH and 1/2". Personally, I wouldn't
use one, just a further complication and I don't kick my door.
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By finished in place do you mean leave the door on the hinges instead
of laying down horizontal?

Yes. You can't do the job in one day. You need several coats and each coat
takes multiple hours to dry which means a temporary door if you take it off
the hinges. Taking off is better but not very practical.
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Showing my lack of experience here - however, would think that to
brush apply varnish on a vertical surface is a sure way to get runs /
sags.

Not if you apply it correctly...thinned so it flows together, not thin
enough or applied heavily enough to run.
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After applying a coat of varnish - would it be advisable to provide
some form of protective barrier in front of the surface to ensure
nothing gets on / stuck in the wet varnish?

Wouldn't matter, something will get stuck in it anyway. Any bugs will just
brush off once they and the varnish have dried.
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How can I test the existing finish to determine if it is varnish?

Wipe it with lacquer thinner...if it dissolves easily it isn't varnish.
Doesn't much matter what the existing finish is anyway as long as you sand
it to bare wood or even just enough to get rid of oxidation and any
yellowish, non-adhered areas