DIYbanter - View Single Post - What is this white scratchy stuff on the sides and bottom of mypool?

SMS

On 5/8/2012 8:58 AM, wrote:

I have to disagree that he has to use only liquid chlorine.
There is nothing wrong with using trichlor tablets. I use
them without any problem and they are not only easier
but cheaper than liquid chlorine. Each has it's place if
used properly and you understand the pros and cons
of each.

The problem with trichlor tablets is that they all contain cyanuric acid
(stabilizer). Cyanuric acid does not evaporate. With tablets, your
cyanuric acid level will rise over 100ppm after a couple of years of
using tablets, then you'll have to drain and refill because your
chlorine loses effectiveness (it is actually illegal to have too high of
a cyanuric acid level in many states). What they need is tablets that
contain no cyanuric acid to use once the stabilizer level is high enough.

I must have heard the pool water tester at Leslie's tell people that
their stabilizer level is way to high, and that they need to drain and
refill, at least 20 times; the customers initially don't believe it,
hoping for some chemical that will neutralize the cyanuric acid (there
isn't one that is sold anymore). Of course it was the salesperson at
Leslie's that encouraged them to use tablets in the first place because
they're so much more profitable than liquid chlorine.

When the customer asks what can be done to stop the cyanuric acid level
from going up after, they drain and refill, they are told to use liquid
chlorine, or to put in a salt system.

I'd prefer to fill my tablet feeder with tablets rather than lug liquid
chlorine around, but I've been through the hassle of trying to lower
cyanuric acid.

I think the reason that some people get away with continuously using
tri-chlor tablets is because they live in a climate where they partially
drain the pool in the winter. This doesn't apply in warm climates, where
you don't get rid a lot of the water each year.

Look at what the professional pool service companies use:

1) Liquid Chlorine
2) Liquid Muriatic Acid
3) Monopersulfate based shock
4) Phosphate remover

Sometimes 3 and 4 are combined in one product, i.e Orenda CV700, which
the pool store I go to buys in 275 gallon containers for their pool
service business.

If you avoid Tri-Chlor tablets, you should be able to go at least five
years between draining and refilling (eventually your TDS level will be
too high).

The other key thing to remember is that when you drain and refill your
pool, always start filling the pool from the bottom and work your way up.