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Leon[_7_] Leon[_7_] is offline
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Default Shop Cabinet Door

On 4/29/2012 10:12 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2012 10:39:23 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/29/2012 8:36 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2012 07:46:12 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/28/2012 3:40 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Yeah, they're pretty cool, + considerably lighter than steel I-beams.
Do you wax them to keep finishes from sticking?

??? Can't say I have ever had a problem with a finish sticking to any
thing to the point that it was a problem... Then again my finishes go on
thin and absolutely with out runs. I use Gel varnishes and can varnish
one side. immediately flip it and put it down on the work surface to do
the other side.

When, during Texas summers? Waterlox takes 15 minutes to dry to the
touch, but I wouldn't dream of tipping a freshly finished piece on a
finished side even then. Are you talking about cabinet sides which
will be screwed together?


Any time of year and any piece, cabinet sides inner and outer sides,
door fronts and backs, totally covered in one application per coat.

Now mind you I don't let them stay against a particular flat surface
while curing, only during application.
After application I typically stand them up on the floor and leaning up
against an object to let there be full ventilation on all sides. I
might be working on 15~20 pieces at one time.


Oh, OK. But, still, it's amazing that it doesn't stick even during a
few minute rest on the fresh finish.

--
You never hear anyone say, 'Yeah, but it's a dry cold.'
-- Charles A. Budreau


By the same token, dust is really not an issue either.

You should give gel stains and varnishes a try. Old Masters is a pretty
good brand, read and follow the directions on the can.

Or basically, apply how ever you want to do so and wipe off
"immediately". 10 or so minutes later wipe again with a fresh clean
cloth. Let dry 4~8 hours and repeat 2 or more times.