Swingman wrote in
:

On 4/29/2012 12:53 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

I wonder if cutting a thinner slot using something like the HF
multitool then plunging the jigsaw into that slot would help things
out. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

Kerf size is different isn't it?

Yes. (That's also the problem with plunging with a circular saw and
finishing with a jigsaw.)

However, the multitool kerf should be smaller than the jigsaw, so that
initial slot can be used as a guide for the jigsaw blade to plunge
straight. It's like drilling a 1/16" hole before drilling a much larger
hole.

Of course, the easiest way to avoid the need for plunging is to make
one continuous cut. I could round the corners and avoid the whole
plunging issue all together. I'm reasonably certain the jigsaw will
cut a penny- sized curve without trouble.

So, how you planning to start the cut without marring either the
cutout and/or the remaining "frame"?

Depends upon the quality of level of cut you're willing to settle for.

I can start at the bottom and cut around. There's already a shelf
installed, the cabinet frame will be built on top of that.

Since it's shop furniture, I always attempt to get the best quality cut
but accept much less.

Even with a good jig saw you are most likely going to have to dress up
both sides of the cut around both the door and the remaining cabinet
"frame", meaning your gap may get bigger than you originally intended
... and IME, it's hard to do that cleanup in a consistent manner with
regard to material removed.

If you're willing to settle for an inset gap of say +/- 1/4" (or
more), a top of the line well setup jig saw with new blades, and
enough material on hand to burn few attempts, will most likely work
... but you may still be dissatisfied with the overall gap consistency
from door to door on project involving other than just a one-off door
and frame.

Obviously, and I'm not being condescending, you will want to do some
practice runs and jig up for the job.

I can use the same aluminum guide for the jigsaw as I do the circular
saw. Cutting curves would be a bit of an issue for a jig, but I'll
probably freehand those.

There's only going to be 4 doors, so using anything more than the guide
probably wouldn't be worth it.

AAMOF, any jig/feature you can cobble up that will keep your jig saw
running straight, true, and perpendicular (if that's what you want) to
the surface will increase your chances of success immeasurably and may
well be the key(s) to the kingdom.

Certainly worth a try to see what your equipment, and your jig making
skills can accomplish ... who knows, there may never be anything other
than a jig saw necessary to your future woodworking successes.


I trust the saw to run straight and true, I've used it in the past and
it's always done it. Any mistakes are my fault. Good tools are the
first key to woodworking success. :-)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.