On Sat, 07 Apr 2012 02:10:31 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 16:14:48 -0400, wrote:

On 06 Apr 2012 19:20:01 GMT, Steve wrote:

Rebel1 wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



Having been in the security system business for the last 33 years I can
give you several caveats:

1 A professional thief will get what he wants from your home with no real
problems. The good news is it has to something very valuable for them to
waste their time on. An alarm system will make them think long and hard
before deciding to either attempt your place or the one done the street
with no alarm system.

2 The cops take forever to respond in most alarm system activations. So
my suggestion is the install an indoor siren. If you make the interior
loud enough the amateurs burgulars will leave quickly.

3 Modern systems have battery backup that should be good for at least 72
hours without AC power.

4 Get a system that is centrally monitored. You will have the peace of
mind that as soon as the system activates someone will be on duty to call
the police. In the case of a false alarm while you are home, you can call
them and give them your abort code which will stop them from dispatching
the police or fire dept. I would add a cellular backup transmitter so
that if the thieves cut the phone lines to your house, the signal will be
sent to the central station anyway and the authorities will be
dispatched.

5 Add at least 1 smoke detector to the system so if your home catches
fire while you are away at least the fire dept. will respond, hopefully
in time to prevent a total loss.

6 Connect all doors and operable windows to the system with magnetic
sensors. I would also tamper the covers on the electrical and telephone
panels so that the alarm would activate as soon as someone attempted to
cut the power or phone lines.

7 Infrared motion detectors are a second line of defense in case the
intruder gets past the door or window sensors somehow. If you have pets
get a "dual-tech" style detector that is more resistant to false alarms
from pets.

That pretty much covers the basics. I would contact a licensed alarm
contractor to give you an estimate. At that point you can decide if you
want to attempt the job yourself or let someone else do it. Make sure if
you hire someone that they are bonded and have undergone a background
check.

Hope this helps.
Steve
You forgot the "dual mode" glass breakage detectors. Trigger the
alarm BEFORE they actually get inside if possible.


Trying to recall the conversation I had about 14 years ago, I think
what you said has to do with the type of windows. I admit tho, you
are making me struggle to remember what I was told back then.

In my old house I think I had what you mentioned on my windows and in
one case, I believe it saved my house from a break in. I was very
glad I had an alarm.
Dual mode detects thump and tinkle. Much less liable to false trigger
from thingls like wind chimes, telephones, or doorbells.