On 3/23/2012 9:59 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/23/12 9:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlecfWdnWbhpYdsQfvSnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink .com,
says...

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote in message
...

On Mar 18, 1:10 pm, wrote:
Sonny wrote:
I don't recall ever cutting melamine, so I have a question, also.
Would sawing it proud, then finishing the edges with a straight bit/
router produce a better job than using a saw?

Sonny

Yes.

Like he said. In my experience, a router is the only way to get a
perfect edge on melamine without a scoring blade on your saw. Even the
melamine blades have not given me perfect cuts. YMMV

I have cut it quite successfully with a 50 tooth combo blade. Raise the
blade about 1/16. Run the board threw the saw to score the melamine. Flip it
over and score the other side. Raise the blade so it will just cut threw
the thickness of the board. Cut again. The first cut does the same job as a
scoring blade. Depending on how sharp the blade is, you may not have to
score the second side. Just keep the scored side down. I scored the second
side as I didn't have any extra and didn't want to take the chance. Probably
overkill. Works well for plywood too.

Slapping forehead I've done that for melamine. Never occurred to me
to do it for plywood.


A fresh-to-the-blade zero clearance insert helps matters, as well.

I have a phenolic zero-clearance insert for my Unisaw (wouldn't have any other
kind) that I periodically "refresh" by covering the top side of the blade
opening with masking tape, then turning it upside down and filling the opening
with epoxy. It beats spending $25 (or more) a pop for a fresh zero-clearance
insert.

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