On Mar 19, 7:11*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Mar 18, 11:37*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Mar 18, 6:31*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Mar 18, 4:10*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Mar 17, 10:23*pm, wrote:

On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:54:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
So is the different number of drivers on the different 16" chains
based on the gear that drives the chain? In other words, why does a
16" chain for one Stihl model have 56 drivers, another 16" chain for a
different Stihl model have 57 drivers, etc?

The drivers affect the match to the gear. *Same as if you were matching
teeth on two gears. *If one gear has 10 teeth per inch, the other one
needs the same or they wont mesh. *The amount of teeth dont matter, it's
the drivers must match the gear or it wont work. *Then the bar needs the
proper thickness of the drivers to fit correctly in the groove.

Look up the make and model of your saw on the web. *Find a downloadable
manual, it will tell you what to buy, or give you a phone number to
call. *The packages on those generic chains are mostly worthless.

Or just look on the bar and buy a chain with the size and driver
number specified on it. *I don't think think there are any bars
anymore that don't have the info stamped right on them. *I could be
wrong tho, just ask my wife.

Harry K

"I don't think think there are any bars anymore that don't have
the info stamped right on them."

I assume by "anymore" that you are referring to "age of bar", right?

I'm assuming that you mean all "newer" bars have that info on them.
Since you have no idea how old my saw is, you can't possibly know if
mine fits the "anymore" category. And I mean that in the nicest
way. ;-)

The fact is, your wife is right...meaning that you aren't.

The only numbers stamped on my bar are PA01222 *and F1*. The PA number
is the part number for the bar.

The manual does say that I need a 56 driver chain for that bar, so the
generic packaging at Home Depot was right.

Anyway, thanks for the info. The stumps are cut, the chain is probably
ruined, but the $16 doesn't hurt too badly.

OK.

No, your chain is not ruined, all it needs is to be sharpened again.
Usual charge at a shop will run from $7 (my dealer) to $10.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just called a local saw shop and a mower repair shop. They both get
about $10 to sharpen a chain.

For $16 I can get a new one.

Here's a non-sarcastic question, even though it sounds like one...

Why would I make 2 special trips to a shop (drop off and pick up) for
a resharpened chain when I can pick up a new one during any of my many
trips to the borg for only $6 more? In addition, it would take less
time since I can simply grab the chain off the shelf and not have to
deal with counter staff or wait in line. The borgs are on my regular
driving routes while the shops are out of the way. I would need to
subtract fuel costs (admittedly minimal) from that $6 savings.

I don't use my chain saw enough that the extra $6 will occur very
often, maybe 2 to 3 times a year to cut up small branches for back
yard fires.

Would the resharpened chain be any better than the factory sharpness,
perhaps making it a better deal? Should I spend more money on a better
quality "saw shop" chain and then have it sharpened by them as needed?

Man, I messed up that post badly. Try again:

As time goeson you will be paying that $6 multiple times. The real
answer is to learn to sharpen it yourself - it's not difficult. For
around $6 you can get a file guide with instructions and a file and be
set to resharpen. That $16 chain should last you more than 10 years
per your useage.

A carbide chain might be an sanwer - they will stand a lot of abuse
and still cut.

BTW. Teh tone of each an every one of your replies to me has been
over the top sarcastic. If you don't want advice, don't ask!

Harry K