In article ,
"Wild_Bill" wrote:

I have 3 good bench grinders (or 5 maybe).. and I now feel a sudden urge to
drill holes in the outboard ends of the arbors, for installing safety
(cotter) pins in them to eliminate the possiblility of having the wheels
spinning the nuts off and running across the floor.

The problem is rather the inverse, grinding drag causing the nuts to
become overly tight, in the extreme breaking the wheel (not that I've
ever heard of this happening on a bench grinder).

The nut won't unscrew all the way because once the wheel can spin
freely, it is no longer able to turn the nut.


The idea's probably already been patented, so probably not much potential
for it being a rewarding feature.

I plan to use a shopmade "feather key" (made from 1/8" square keystock)
on the inboard sides, nearest to the motor), with the top of the key
narrowed to fit the 0.115" keyways in the flange washers.

I was going to use a woodruff key, but they are weaker than square keys,
and milling the lengthwise groove is easier than making the recess for a
woodruff key, especially because one needs to go right up to the
shoulder upon which the flange washer rests.

Joe Gwinn


--
WB
.........


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Wild_Bill" wrote:

A+, good conclusion Joe.. why all the mystery? heheh

Because most modern grinders omit the anti-rotation feature.

I wonder if Baldor grinders have anti-rotation or not.


I think you meant to state 1/3 HP rating in the OP.. so it's likely to
stall
before crushing the grinding wheels, me thinks.
(however, 1/3 HP is much more powerful than today's 3/4+ HP "ratings")

I think I did mention that it's 1/3 HP. Maybe they had bigger ponys
back then.

Anyway, we have a conculsion: The anti-rotation feature will be
retained, or improved. The alternatives are the through-pin and the
woodruff key.

Joe Gwinn