The unusual design of the Proxxon PD 230 lathe leaves few options for any of
the more commonly available QCTP quick change toolposts.

There is very little space available in the dsign for adapting a common
QCTP, since having a dovetail to match the base of the top/compound slide is
required, so it's not likely that it will be easy to design a QCTP which
will utilize the rotational position feature common to most types of QCTPs.
Also, the feed screw of the top slide is fitted in a way that maintaining a
feed screw feature almost demands the supplied toolpost or the Proxxon
QCTP.. however the Prox model still doesn't rotate except by unlocking and
rotating the top slide.

I think you'll find that the supplied toolpost is adequate for most
operations you'll end up wanting to do.
The supplied TP appears to be capable of 2-way cutting tool mounting, at
least, so that's a definite advantage.
As with most lathe work (and many other tasks), planning out the sequence of
required events/steps is what makes the most practical use of one's time.
Generally, the ability to plan these "time saving" steps effectively, comes
with experience.

On other lathes which can utilize commonly available and easy to install
QCTPs, they are merely luxury conveniences. They have several good features
which make tool changes convenient, but as someone mentioned, lathes with
more primitive tool holders have been used successfully for generations
without QCTPs.
In addition to making many of the machines and weapons for 2 world wars,
manual lathes and rigid or lantern toolposts were used to advance every type
of technological progress which took place since the first lathe was
produced.

As a beginning lathe user, it may be very useful to start with plastic stock
to help you get accustomed to the various general aspects of cutting
rotating material.
Scraps of PVC pipe, empty pen bodies and various parts of items which will
be discarded, should all be seen as potential parts now.. definitely good
materials for practicing anyway.

A shallow chip tray/pan can be fabricated from any number of materials or
unused products which you may have in a cupboard or closet, such as a baking
pan for example.
Many small lathes have features on the bottom to enable the owner to mount
the base to a table or bench. Those features can be utilized to place block
spacers between the base and a chip pan, where rubber feet/pads can be
mounted to the bottom of the pan under the blocks to prevent sliding around
during use.

When metal parts become a regular part of lathe use, you'll discover how
easily chips attach themselves to clothing and shoes, which then transfer
them to various other locations.. so try to set up a work table away from
the busy traffic patterns within a household, and be aware of the parasitic
characteristics and behaviors? of chips.

I'm not familiar with the design of the Prox lathe, but you may find it
useful to have a hand crank for the spindle, if one can be attached on the
left end of the spindle.
Hand cranks are useful for certain operations, and I find them very handy
for short threaded sections such as you may be contemplating for lens
adapters.
It's always the best practice to unplug a machine before installing
something like a hand crank which is likely to cause machine damage or
personal injury if the machine power is accidently turned on with an
unbalanced spindle hand crank in place.

In addition to DoN's excellent recommendations made earlier, one lens type
that I know of has inch-pitch threads, and those are C-mount video lenses,
which are 1" 32 TPI.

A couple of other items needed for machine use would be some small brushes
for cleaning away chips (compressed air can actually force chips into places
on machines where thay may do harm), and an oiler with an oil suitable for
your new machine.
The manufacturer may recommend certain lubricating products for your
machine, and indicate which parts need to be kept very clean, and
lubricated.

Finally, I hope you get a great deal of enjoyment from your new machine.. I
find metalworking projects to be very gratifying.

--
WB
..........


"Bob S" wrote in message
...
This seems a little more complicated. Everything that I read and the
people that I talk to say that a quick-change toolpost is more of a
necessity than a luxury.

Choices seem to be:

Buy the Proxxon one

Buy the A2ZCNC 60% of AXA one

Build one, probably of the circular post plus split-bushing type


The Proxxon version costs about $115 with two holders, plus $21 from
another holder. It replaces the existing toolpost, which is a
rectangular chunk of aluminum with a dovetail slide on the bottom and
a threaded hole in the side; it doubles as the top slide! It thus
retains all of the flexibility and deficiencies of the current
slow-change toolpost, but tools get changed quickly.

The primary deficiency seems to be that the tools are fixed at the
same angle as the top slide. One cannot (for example) set the top
slide to 29 degrees and then set the tool perpendicular to the work.


The A2ZCNC version costs about $100 with four holders. It completely
replaces the top slide, mounting to the slot in the cross slide.
Reports are that it is a quality product. It apparently allows you to
set the tool at any angle to the work by loosening the mounting screw,
rotating, and re-tightening. However, there is no top slide with this
unit in place. That means no 29-degree threading (which apparently
cannot be done with any other option either). It also means using the
current slow-change toolpost for tapers. I don't know of any other
function of the top slide, but I am a beginner so I am probably
missing something.


Then there is the DIY option. The advantages are probably educational
value and low monetary cost (but high time cost). It would probably
consist of a circular post mounting to the slot in the cross slide,
plus holders consisting of rectangular blocks with a hold up the
middle with a slot and a clamping screw. The tools could be set at any
angle, but again there is no top slide.


Any other good options?

Any advice?

Bob