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Lieutenant Scott Lieutenant Scott is offline
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Default Proper light bulbs returning?

On Sun, 04 Mar 2012 17:48:41 -0000, Tim Watts wrote:

Lieutenant Scott wrote:

On Sun, 04 Mar 2012 13:43:46 -0000, Tim Watts


What?? I have never seen a heat damaged lamp socket.


Strange. Any that are down-facing (eg a normal pendant light) go brittle
that I've seen.


Up, down and sideways over 40 years, 4 houses.


Must be bloody good light fittings then - brass? The plastic ones go brittle if they have a 100W in them.

I stick to GU10 and BC. I do have ES and SES from existing fittings in
the house and some cupboard lighting.


My thinking too. BC for regular, and GU10 for spots. We have a couple of SES
table lamps but the damn things are nearly impossible to avoid.


They seem to be making LEDs in all fittings now anyway - not in supermarkets so much, but on ebay and mail order companies.

ELV is just as bad


Do you mean low voltage?


Yes. In engineering speak, "Low Voltage" means less than 1000VAC or 1500VDC
between conductors or 600VAC/900VDC to earth (IIRC). So they invented "Extra
Low Voltage" to stand for what normal people call low voltage


Oh.... I shoulda known that, having done engineering in my degree :-)

I've not seen the point in low voltage lighting
at all, all you're doing is adding the requirement for a transformer and
more wiring.


Good for certain installation zones which is why I have one (shower). I
would also use it for soffit lighting if I had any as that's the one other
place it's likely to get a good soaking.


Unless you put the light IN the shower cubicle, I don't see it necessary to be quite that careful.

Then there's various fluorescent fittings T4,T5,PLS,PLC,PLT, 2D 2pin, 2D
4pin, GX53

It's mad...


I try to avoid those ones. I don't want to be stuck with fluorescent..


I'm using a few 2D commercial fittings (simple, white, round, not too big)
for the kids bedrooms and the hall. The bedroom deployment is a separate
circuit to give a good strong daylight effect over a desk as both rooms are
north facing.


I love really bright light, much easier to see and easier to think what you're doing! Before LEDs I got some "biobulb" CFLs which made a proper white light instead of the weak yellow crap you get from most CFLs. Trouble is they lasted only 6 months, and in fact 2 of the 10 caught fire (well smoked). Not sure if they would have caught fire if I hadn't been there to switch them off.

I figure an all white fitting with a white diffuser will tend to go
unnoticed against a white ceiling - I'll see how right I am - but I'm not
too bothered as this is a clear "function over form" scenario. Their "main"
lighting is chrome, dimmable, and SWMBO approved.


ROFL!!! "SWMBO approved" - that should be on documentation along with the electrical safety approvals.

I like brass coloured fittings where possible. I think chrome looks cheaper. I suppose I associate brass with gold and chrome with silver. A silver medal is only 2nd place :-)

It's occured to me that for a few places I said I wanted downlighters with
LEDs for nightlighting or to sort out dark corners, I don't necessarily need
true downlighters. I actually don't really like them anyway - I've just got
programmed into defaulting to them because everyone else does.


For corners I have compact ceiling mounted spots, which I aim into the corners of the room.

So I'm off to look for a very small discrete inexpensive fitting now and see
what gives.

Sockets are so much easier: "what colour dear?", "white's OK", "then I'll
use blah brand as they seem good..."


WHITE? UGH. I have brass. I managed to get a pack of 10 double brass sockets for £20 on ebay, brand new in packets. B&Q wanted £12 EACH!

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