On Sat, 21 Jan 2012 17:08:39 -0500, Tony Sivori
wrote:

JimT wrote:

On 1/20/2012 11:15 PM, JimT wrote:
One similar to this with LOTS of sandpaper.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

I used a similar sander rented from Home Depot. The results were
excellent.

One floor was new wood, and one floor was 55 year old Red Oak being
refinished. It was a very time consuming job.

Observations and recommendations to add to the thread and for the original
poster (piggybacking, since I don't see the OP's google groups post) -

Before getting started, use a wood moisture meter to make sure the wood is
not wet. Any wood floor project is doomed if you have a wet crawlspace,
wet basement, wet sub-floor, roof leak, or leaky plumbing that is making
your wood floor damp.

The orbital sander is very slow compared to a drum floor sander. But the
odds of getting it just right with a drum sander in the hands of someone
with no experience is very low.

You will also need to rent an edger sander for the edges of the floor, and
closets if any are involved. I tried using a Ridgid $100 general purpose
belt sander on the edges, and it didn't quite cut it. For the corners, my
Harbor Freight Multi-Tool sander worked well.

I recommend removing base boards prior to starting the sanding job, so
getting the finish against the base boards will not be an issue. If you
don't remove the base boards, you will probably need to install a toe
strip after the job is done.

If the floors are rough enough to need much wood filler, you will need to
sand it all down to bare wood. If you need to do that, start with 20 grit.

After the initial sanding, apply the wood filler, troweling the entire
floor if needed.

Next sand with 36 grit, or re-sand with the 20 grit if the wood filler
coat is thick. Then, one grit at a time (36, 60, 80), work your way up to
100 grit. Do not use 120 grit, that can actually seal the grain and keep
it from accepting the stain.

Don't skip any grits! Unless sanding marks and shortened finish life are
something you desire.

You will need a high quality vacuum with a dust free exhaust to get the
sanding dust off the floor prior to applying stain and final finish. I
opted for the Ridgid WD1250 from Home Depot, with the very expensive but
not quite HEPA filter.

Make sure you use a wood filler that is compatible with your chosen stain
and finish. Stay away from the consumer level big box stuff for your
filler, stain and finish.

Woodwise is a popular wood filler choice. I went with Bona Pacific wood
filler, since that was the brand of finish that I chose.

After sanding is done, decide if you want natural or stained wood.

Application of stain is easy. Be sure to use a stain that is compatible
with the final finish. I used Bona Dry Fast, for guaranteed compatibility
with the Bona Traffic final finish.

Have a good supply of old cotton freshly laundered garments, old t-shirts
are great, as are old tighty whitey undershorts. Do not use any fabric
softener or drier sheets when laundering the stain rags.

Work quick, apply the stain, then wipe the excess off with a clean and dry
cotton rag. Do not sand the stained floor.

After the stain is dry, tack with a slightly dampened microfiber mop or
clean rag.

Now you are ready for the finish.

This is a good time to mention that bad pet stains will not sand out,
ever. Your choices a live with the pet stain (which can include a
strategically placed throw rug), replace the wood, or try to make the pet
stain less noticeable by using a dark wood stain.

If you opt for natural wood (no stain) you will need to apply a sealer
prior to applying the first coat of the final finish.

For the finish I specifically and strongly recommend Bona Traffic. About
$100 per gallon, and you need three coats, and it only covers 350 to 400
SF per gallon, per coat. It is also worth every penny.

Bona Traffic is the hardest and most durable finish on the market, and as
a bonus it is relatively easy to apply. It is not sold in big box stores,
and intended for professional use only, so you will have to order it on
the web.

Don't expect Bona Traffic to look better than cheaper finishes, because it
won't. The reason it commands the most expensive price is its unmatched
durability.

Three coats of Bona Traffic gives you a true commercial grade finish for
high traffic businesses.

If you don't have children or pets, with normal care you could expect
Traffic to look great for decades in a private home.

To use Traffic successfully, during finish application you must control
humidity and air flow, including drafts from exterior doors. Do not
open windows and do not allow your heat or air conditioner to run while
applying Traffic, or during the 3 hour dry time. Avoid applying when
humidity is at either extreme, very high or very low.

Mix the Bona with the included hardener (like epoxy, but Bona Traffic is
water based). You have 3 or 4 hours to get the finish on the floor once it
is mixed with the hardener. It applies quick, and I had the finish on the
floor in less than one hour per room.

Apply the Traffic with a 1/8 inch Purdy White Dive paint roller. Pour the
Traffic directly onto the floor, and LIGHTLY spread it out with the roller
(you will need a 5 foot roller handle). Use a paint cut in pad applicator
for the corners and around door frames.

Important! Apply at the recommended 350 to 400 SF per gallon. Do not allow
any major air movement or drafts. Otherwise, the finish will dry too
quickly and will not self level, and there may be bubbles in the finish.
You would then have an expensive mess on you hands.

No need to sand between the first and second coat. Apply the second coat 3
to 4 hours after the first coat.

Do not use Traffic on the second coat that was mixed for the first coat.
Do not walk on the first coat with shoes. Freshly laundered socks only,
when walking on the first coat to apply the second coat.

Compared to the earlier floor sanding, intercoat abrasion is easy with
Traffic. Sand between the second and third coat only, and even that is
optional. Sanding Traffic is mandatory only if more than 48 hours passes
between coats.

You will get a smoother final coat if you sand between the second and
third coats. If you decide to sand, let the second coat dry 8 to 12 hours.

Don't use a sanding machine, get a pole sander, one made for drywall
installation. Use 220 grit sanding screen (not sand paper!). No need to
knock yourself out. Sand lightly, then tack with a very slightly damp lint
free rag or microfiber mop. I would still avoid shoes, and go clean socks
only on the floor.

After the third Traffic coat is applied, the floor will be 90% cured in
three days, 100% in 7 days. Don't move furniture back into the room until
the floor is 100% cured.

I gave mine two weeks, just to be sure.

Nice job, Tony.
I bet your floor looks real good.
Probably made the OP's head explode reading this.
I've only got a couple comments.
Had pros do mine.

I had some dog **** stains I thought wouldn't come out.
Sander didn't know either.
They disappeared.
Probably weren't as deep as they looked, or had just discolored the
old varnish.
So don't abandon hope.

The drum sander got about within about 1/2" to the walls.
Second guy got on his knees and used a hand pad sander along the
walls.
I didn't get a close look at what he was using
He was young and strong. Didn't take him long at all.
It all matched up.
Something to consider and maybe try first.
I try to remember what the pros do.

To be clear on the base/shoe and door casings, think hard about that
before you start.
We ended up replacing ours after the job, to match the floor.
And had to deal with ridge lines.
At minimum I'd remove shoe before sanding.

Only other thing I'll add is about black nail mark holes from carpet
grab strips or any nail that stains the floor.
They won't sand out.
I have some of those black marks, but not enough to care much.
Somebody here had the best idea.
Drill them and fill with 1/8" dowel before you sand.

--Vic