"Bill" wrote in message
...
On 1/5/2012 4:30 PM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In ,
"Vic wrote:



Bottom to top - you mean center to rim?

When I hollow the bowl I always work toward the center, scooping more
each
time. So you are saying that the smoothing cuts be made in the reverse
direction?

Me, I always say you need to cut with supported wood. The "rule" is
down hill. The problem is, down hill is sometimes "up"

Think about how the grain is presented to the tool, if the wood you
are cutting is supported by the wood about to be cut, you are cutting on
supported wood.

Which means, on the inside, cutting from the rim to the center.

I'm betting your problem is you are falling off the bevel of the
gouge, when you reach the bottom of the bowl. This is NOT unusual

If you have PBS-Create watch tonight's (8PM Eastern and Pacific) of
Woodturning Workshop. (repeat Friday at 2AM). Stuart Batty mentions
needing a steeper gouge for the bottom

Back to the original question. The answer is YES, which ever works for
you. I know serious production turners that only use scrappers and can
turn out a bowl faster then you want to think about. I also know
production turners that turn out a bowl without ever touching anything
but a bowl gouge. But then I also know turners that use only Hook
chisels and are just as fast.


what Ralph says is correct, however, I find that a shearing cut from the
bottom to the edge is a good way to smooth out ripples and tear out - this
is not a ride the bevel cut, the U of the gouge faces the wood, the bottom
edge (fingernail grind) is shear scraping, and you are using VERY light
pressure.

So would this be what is sometimes described in the books as a "pull" cut?