"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...
Vic Baron wrote:

I'm starting to try my hand at small faceplate cups or bowls - nothing
over 4" diameter and 3" deep yet.

Having a problem getting a smooth finish on the interior of the bowl.
Don't have the hang of getting a smooth cut on the inside walls with a
gouge so I use various round scrapers. This gives me some rough areas
where there is end grain. Can't seem to simply sand it out. Do I just
need
more practice or is there something I've missed.

Mainly using claro walnut burl, maple and even some pine test pieces -
same result - rough spots on the inner and sometimes outer walls where
there is end grain. I buy the waxed blanks from various places and the
wood is usually from damp to wet, if that makes any difference.

Thanx,

Vic


Vic, as everyone else has said, "The gouge needs to be sharp." That does
not mean you need to be able to shave with it or that the little microbes
go
"eak, eak" when you breathe on it. But it needs to feel sharp when you
run
your finger across it.

I have found using the gouge inverted to a 120degree angle and making
light
scrapes with it, will clean a lot of the tear out up. Then there is
always
shellac, thin CA glue, wax (which I have not used, or even thought of -
will
have to give it a try) or MinWax Woodhardner to stablize the grain, IF the
tearout is really bad or the wood is punky. Baring that, get your gouge
work down and practice taking really light cuts to finish.

Also, you may have tons of claro lying around, but I am cheap (married a
"down-easter Scot) and have found that pine 1x's, glued up into a stack,
with the grain alternating direction (each 90degrees to the one below it)
makes a real good, and cheap practice piece.

Deb


LOL! I understand. I do the same with the pine but every now and then I want
to try something pretty so I'll buy a chunk of claro and turn away. I still
have lots of pine blanks that I'll be working on. I'll have to try that
scraping with the gouge.

As to sharp - my regular wood chisels I can shave with, literally, but the
turning tools aren't that bad. I'm getting the feel of being able to tell
when I've lost the edge on a tool and am pushing harder for the same cut.
I'm also getting pretty good at touching them up on the grinder and a quick
hone and back to work. I'm getting better with the "feel" of the gouge on
the work but that's where I need to work on a lighter touch. I'm still
clutching the gouge expecting a catch that will rip it from my poor tired
fingers. Need to lighten up a bit but remain firm. Working on it.

Thanx for the guidance!

Vic