On Jan 5, 11:06*am, "Lieutenant Scott" wrote:
On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 03:52:44 -0000, thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 5, 9:46 pm, "Lieutenant Scott" wrote:
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 15:43:30 -0000, thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 5, 3:11 pm, "Lieutenant Scott" wrote:
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 14:20:06 -0000, thirty-six wrote:
On Dec 4, 11:42 pm, "Lieutenant Scott" wrote:
http://diydata.com/projects/centralh...diator_balanci...
Why? *Surely if your boiler is powerful enough you don't need to mess around like this. *If your boiler can't heat all the radiators at once, your boiler is too small for the system. *Even with all my radiators on full blast, the boiler doesn't run continuously.
I suspect then you have a microbore (8mm, 10mm) sealed system radially
distributed by a central manifold.
Of course. *Do you mean to tell me that the large bore systems don't have a correspondingly larger bore pipe from the boiler to feed them? *What ****t designed that?!?
Do you know anyone using a large bore system in a small house? *Do you
alternatively mean minibore (22&15mm)? *I would rather you get your
terminology in order before hurling insults.
Large in comparison to microbore ffs. *You know perfectly well what I meant. *So, answer the question, do you have a larger diameter pipe from the boiler than to each individual radiator? *If not no wonder you need to do the silly balancing act.
Rad feeds from the main flow and return are of different lengths,
available pressure at each rad varies so balncing is tequired to get
the furthest rad to spec. on heat output when all user controls are
fully open.
So how come mine works perfectly with all valves open fully? *All the radiators warm up at the same rate and become piping hot very quickly. *I've got 22mm from the boiler, through the pump, to two 15mm pipes (one for radiators and one for the hot water tank), to 8mm for each radiator (except the garage which is 10mm for two radiators).
A 22mm pipe can feed two 15mm pipes without loss of capacity and a
15mm can feed two 10mm or four 8mm pipes without loss of capacity. As
long as these demands arn't exceeded (with feed lengths within reason)
and are all on the same level it wont matter where the rad valves are
set
Must not be operated without
corrosion inhibitor else you will possibly not be able to flush the
crap out the radiators while in situ.
I've been told by a heating engineer that's a load of crap.
Ho-ho.
So why have I never had a problem?
If you don't know, you've been lucky. *Your water was neutral with
minimal mineral content the autovent has worked without fault and the
system has remained tight.
Ah well I am in Scotland. *I don't get scale in the kettle or dishwasher either, but I've been told by my Aunt in London that it's awful. *Can't they filter that crap out of the water supply?
Hard water is good for your health. Soft acidic water consumed
continuously will draw valuable minerals from your body.
I drained the system years ago and never put inhibitor back in. *Are you cleverer than a Corgi registered professional?
No leaks are tolerable, and less likely.
Not sure what you mean.
I said LEAKS not LEEKS.
I know. *So what did you mean?
LEAKS !
I know what kinda leak you meant, I was querying the context.
Huh, for a pressurised system, was that? If the system leaks then
it requires topping up with fresh water which introduces oxygen, which
if not vented off will cause corrosion. If your autovent is correctly
sited, remains fully functional and you top up with a close circuit
with a high heat running, the oxygen should vent quickly away out the
system, but it's best not to have to put it in, in the first place.
Other problems with top-up water could be excessive acidity or
excessive mineral content, but this will likely only matter if the
leak was great requiring top-ups at least every month.