Yep, definitely caulk all seams, unfinished joints or penetrations of the
interior surfaces. Caulking is the most cost effective energy reducing
product that any DIY type can use. The return on the investment can be huge
when applied every where it's needed.
If your eardrums pop when you open/close doors, ya done real good.
That doesn't mean you'll suffocate if you spend too much time in that space,
as long as a group isn't cooped up in there to evade the cullers/zombies.

It will be advantageous to start caulking during the framing stages and
follow-up with the semi-finished interior and/or added as the finishing is
being completed.

Losing (paid for) heated air and having it replaced with cold air is where
massive amounts of heating (and visey-versey cooling) energy is often
wasted.

--
WB
..........


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

Darn, for just a few bucks more, you could have framed it with tuba
sixes (or double-stud walls) and needed even less heat to maintain it.
I hope all your wiring is surface mounted, keeping heat loss from the
inner building lower. Seal every corner, crack, and seam, top and
bottom. The better the insulation and the lower the in/ex-filtration,
the less HVAC system you need.


Would like to maintain 50°F to keep machinery from rusting. Outside
temperatures average around 36-38°F through the winter months. I
don't require a warmer temperature for working. Can always place a
small propane heater next to me if I'm going to stand in one place for
a long time.

I'd go with electric instead.

I don't have the book for calculations. Manual J, "Residential Load
Calculation," published by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America
(ACCA), is the recommended method for use in the United States
according to the gummint. They cost only $140!

http://www.mrhvac.com/free-hvac-stuf...ss-calculator/
With my guessing at generic data, it looks like a 11654.392 BTUH loss.
You could call a local HVAC guy and ask what HVAC system you need, or
just get a 4kW heater http://goo.gl/OoxQp from bLowes. Add a box fan
to help destratify. It's large enough to warrant a full HVAC system
if your pockets are deep enough.



All suggestions greatly appreciated. BTW, ceiling will have 8 four-foot
four-lamp fluorescent lights.

I was paging through a woodworking book last night and the author had
mentioned usint an additional switched 2-lamp 4' fluor over each
machine. He powered the machine and the lamp from the switch. That
couldn't be done with 240v single or 3-phase, but it's an idea.

(Pat Warner's _Getting the Very Best from Your Router_ book)

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson