On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 10:04:45 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Unfortunately, you bought your CAT5 at Home Despot and therefore
overpaid.
Where do most of you buy about 250 feet of cat5e cable?
( Here is a picture of what I bought for $75 + San Jose tax)
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7223279.gif
Holdit. We may have a problem. It appears that you are using "double
NAT", where you have two devices doing NAT (the UBNT M2 and the WRT54G).
Yes. But.
My new WISP is asking me to put the first device (UBNT M2) in 'bridge'
mode so that it would be on my WISP provider's subnet (Santa Cruz
Mountains).
If you're going to do anything that involves incoming connections
(VoIP, remote desktop, games), you'll probably find it easier to have a
single easily configurable NAT device.
My portable Skype phone works - but sometimes on outgoing calls (which is
the only way I use it) it only hears one end of the conversation. Could
'that' be related to the double NAT?
I suggest you turn OFF the DHCP server and NAT in the UBNT M2 radio,
and leave the NAT to the WRT54G.
I understand the suggestion. In effect, I think both the NAT & the DHCP
will be removed when/if I follow my WISP's recent (yesterday) suggestion
to configure the Ubuntu Bullet M2 in "bridge" mode and change the IP
address to be on his subnet.
At 10ft, I suggest LMR400 cable and Type N connector.
One reason I may have to add "a" pigtail is that the planar antenna N
connector is in the CENTERLINE of the antenna (which seems to me to be
the dumbest place to be!).
The problem with the centerline is that the mast is in that same
centerline! So, you can't have any mast ABOVE the antenna.
Here is a picture I took tonight of what I mean:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7223272.gif
You can see the bullet-shaped white Ubiquiti M2 screwed directly into the
back of the 19 dBi planar antenna, tilted slightly upward.
In the future, if I want to add a TV antenna, I'd have to move the bullet
M2 out of the centerline anyway. So, at that point, I'll need "a" patch
cord anyway.
Your discussion on the signal losses in that pigtail are interesting!
Careful with the grade of cable. Outdoor can be anything from UV proof
CAT5 to gel filled, armored, thick jacket, and shielded cable. A
non-penetrating (extra thick) outer jacket is probably all you'll need.
This is a picture of what I bought from "Home Despot" for $75 + tax:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7223279.gif
Does it look OK for the 3 runs below?
a) About 100 feet from the antenna to the garage (zig zagging outdoors &
buried just underground) ... and then continuous to ...
b) About 25 feet from the garage to the crawl space up to the office (zig
zagging all indoors)
c) About 25 separate feet from the office back down to the crawl space
and horizontally over to the game room
The right way(tm) to run ethernet in the garage is to bring a 2nd
cable back from a LAN port on the WRT54G back to the garage
That makes sense because that was the "right way(tm)" to wire the game
room; if I were to wire the garage, then it makes sense to be similar to
the game room in concept (i.e., a 'dead wire' run from the office to the
garage).
I would still suggest running 2 cables.
I have no problem running two cables - so - I won't consider doubling up
anymore. I have three times more cat5e cable than I need anyway. And,
these pictures of the crawl space show I have plenty of room.
I just need to drill a bigger hole!
Picture of crawl space view up into the floor of the office
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/7223362.jpeg
Picture of entrance hole in the wall of the office:
www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/7212874/1024/Anonymous/cat5-questions.gif
Picture of crawl space view over to the game room (far end of house):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7223369.gif
Picture of hole in the wall of the game room:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7223279.gif