View Single Post
  #26   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Rick[_19_] Rick[_19_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 79
Default Small engine valve seat - FOLLOWUP


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
I finally got back to this engine (life kept intruding).

Jon Elson wrote:
No, these small differences in valve clearance will not prevent it
from running.


Great, I didn't want to fool around with them any more.

... Does this have electronic (breaker less) ignition,
or is there a set of points buried under a cover under the flywheel?


It had points, then was converted to breaker less. The points are still
there & the wires cut.

Hmmmm, funny it had the kickback when the flywheel was out of time.
That indicates the spark was adequate then. ...


Maybe "kickback" wasn't the right term. 'Cause there wasn't ignition, I
think. What happened was, as I was pulling the start cord, there was a
very abrupt & solid stop. So much so that I hurt my rotator cuff, not
seriously, though.

I just occurred to me that maybe that was what sheared the flywheel key.
In fact, I just looked and it's sheared again! WTF?

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
...
Since (DAMHIKT) the points gap can shear a key, I'd be looking at that.

...

That's a new one for me. It does have the old points there, even though
they aren't used. Is it the plunger that does it? It fits, though,
'cause the key has sheared again.

Thanks,
Bob


Older engines were "Easy spins", which held the intake valve slightly open
for a small portion of the compression stroke, so the usual methods of
checking compression won't give accurate readings (and Briggs did not
publish figures). For those engines, Briggs recommended rotating the
flywheel in the opposite direction and looking for a sharp rebound.

Do you have the crank connected to the load? I'm wondering if the flywheel
needs the added inertia of the blower (like a vertical shaft mower needs the
blade). You could also try heating the ignition coil in an oven for a while
to drive out any moisture.