On 12/22/2011 03:19 PM, James wrote:

I left the walls at about 5/8" to 3/4" and the bottom about 1 1/2"
thick. The height is about 8" to 9" and it's about 9" across. It is

You can take more out of the bottom. It's the sides that move most.
The bottom is more stable.


getting down to 10* to 20* at night here so freezing might be an
option. I could also put it in the chest freezer. My next move is to
buy a new roughing gouge as my old one had grab and broke at the tang
just when I had gotten it sharpened to where it was working good. I
welded it back together but I won't trust it now and I was a welder
forever and have a Heli-arc and know what I'm doing. I'll use it for
light duty stuff. I'm not sure what brand it was maybe a Disson. I've
had them since Jr. High and that was a long time ago. A question on
roughing gouges can a spindle roughing gouge be used for bowls or
should one get one of each? Jim

You should never use a spindle roughing gouge on a bowl. Get a bowl
gouge. They don't have tangs - they're solid bars with the flute milled
in them. If you're doing spindle work a spindle roughing gouge is good
to have but if you're going to focus on bowls just get bowl gouges. A
couple sizes is good - I like a large one (3/4" diameter bar) for big
bowls, and a 1/2" bar for smaller and general purpose use.

Note that an American made tool uses the bar diameter as a measurement
whereas the English tools use the flute size. Thus, a Robert Sorby 3/8"
bowl gouge is what is called a 1/2" bowl gouge on this side of the
puddle. Pay attention when you order our you may get the wrong size.

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers