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Artemus[_4_] Artemus[_4_] is offline
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Default Washer Guide - Home Shop Machinist


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
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"Artemus" wrote in message
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
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So how do you fix them "right". Given the premise that throw them away
and
spend 10-20 times as much for a good drill press is not an option for
most
folks.

Bob if you can see this (eternal sept sometimes doesn't always post
my replies to other servers - or you may have me filtered out) reply
and I'll write up the fix I did on my craftsman 15" DP #113213151.
It isn't the perfect fix but is a big improvement and is simple to do.
Art



Hey Art,

Sure post away. I'ld love to see your fix.

Bob

Here ya go.

See diagram at
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...5154-00001.png
Note the screws (#28) in the lower left. The bottom one goes thru
#27 and into a threaded hole in the head. This hole is open inside the
head all the way to the quill tube. I drilled the old threads (0.8-8 metric)
in the head out and tapped with 1/4-28 threads. The head casting is
not very thick and I wanted more threads in it than 1/4-20 would give.
Next I threaded a 2" piece of 1/4" brass rod 1/4-28 for about 3/4"
on one end and 1/4-20 on the other end for this knob
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?O...lect=Detai ls.
The end that contacts the quill tube was filed flat across w/ a slight
chamfer on the corner.

To use just tighten it up so the quill play is nil but the quill still travels
up/down easily. Tighten it some more and the quill will lock to
hold the chuck at any depth.

It's been about 10 years since I've done this and it's still working just fine
with no wear on the quill at all from the brass rod .

I can post some pics tomorrow if you need them.
Art