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stryped[_3_] stryped[_3_] is offline
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Default Help with 1996 Silverado brakes.

On Dec 12, 11:31*am, Doug Miller
wrote:
On 12/12/2011 11:45 AM, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:

On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 05:36:17 -0800 (PST),
wrote:


I replaced a section of rusted brake line under my truck when I had
the gas tank out. Two things I noticed, One, I had to make a very
sharp bend in the tubing with a tubing bender. It may be slightly
kinked. I was able to blow through it without any difficulty though.
Two, I used a compression fitting where the replacement line met the
old line.


You never ever Ever EVER use a compression fitting on brakes - they
can't take the1000+ PSI pressure and they WILL blow off after a few
panic level stops. *It is literally a ticking time bomb.


Agreed.



You either get a proper double-vee (SAE) or double-bubble (for some
imports) flaring tool and a new length of tubing that goes fitting to
fitting and you flare the free end to length, or you order a pre-made
one from the dealer and change the entire length of tubing


There is a third option: get a new length of straight tubing with flare
fittings on each end, bend to approximate length and shape, and make
additional bends as needed to take up excess length.


This really irritates me. I went to OReily late at night. That is what
they recommended. I even asked if it was better to flare them and they
said this would be just fine.

The problem is, the metal line runs behind the gas tank in the frame
rail and the whole line is about 10 feet from one end to the other. I
had the gas tank out to replace the fuel pump and replaced that line
while it was out becasue it was rusted and leaking. I am not sure if
there is room to work with the tank in. The compression fitting is not
behind the tank but right before it in the frame rail but kind of hard
to get to I am thinking.