Tom Del Rosso wrote in message
...

Arfa Daily wrote:
Of course, I
don't think that there is any such requirement to maintain the
original certification on your side of the pond. So I would say, go
right ahead, and use 'proper' solder to carry out your repairs, but
suck or wick as much of the lead-free solder off the joint as you
can, before remaking the joint.

Will there not always be a residual film of the original solder, and would
that not cause a crack along the entire interface?


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add one more
zero, and remove the last word.




It is the absence of lead rather than presence of tin that is causing the
problems, you have tin in both leaded and lead-free solder. It is the lead
that gives the forgiveness, perhaps someone knows the technical rather than
folksy term for this