On Dec 1, 1:11*pm, (Graven Water) wrote:
Yes, the 1.5" thickness is a rigid requirement. *+- no more than about
1/8".

So to recap: *I'm thinking of using some aluminum channel, 1.5" deep,
1.5" wide, 1/8" thick metal, to mount drywall on a concrete block
wall.

Could I screw into aluminum with deck screws? *I would make
pilot holes.

Apparently aluminum may corrode if it's in contact with stainless
steel. *Someone suggested deck screws because they're painted, so
perhaps there wouldn't be aluminum/other metal contact. *I read
online about a solution that you would paint the aluminum with before
screwing into it.

For the wall the best thing so far seems to be DensArmor Plus, a
kind of drywall with fiberglass facing rather than paper.

Laura

I know it's none of our business, but since you asked for our help, I
feel we have the right to ask (again)...

Why are you not willing to use wood as your studs?

In addition...a new question that I don't think has been asked befo

How are you planning on supporting the aluminum channel, or whatever
stud material you choose?

Will it be attached to the floor and ceiling joists or attached to the
block itself? You seem to be concerned about the types of screws to
use for the drywall, but what about the anchoring screws for your
framing?

"Could I screw into aluminum with deck screws? I would make pilot
holes."

1 - How will you find the pilot holes after you stand the drywall up
against the channel?
2 - I've never tried deck screws in 1/8" aluminum, with or without
pilot holes. Obviously the pilot holes would have to be small enough
so that the screws bit into the channel. I'm not sure how well that
would work...certainly worth a few test runs. You'd have to ensure
that you used screws that had threads high enough up the shaft so that
the threads were still biting into the aluminum when tight.