"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

How much does/did Phil's treatment cost?

Phil didn't suggest any treatment, other than taking the unit to a
qualified service technician. (Just try finding one.) But unless the
"warm up" problem is known and well-understood, the technician
is likely to spend a lot of expensive service time tracking it down.

With all due respect William, that it utter nonsense. Any half way decent
technician, who understands the finer points of how a CD player works,
will
have enough experience under his belt to readily get a handle on what is
causing the problem, whether he knows the specific player, or not. As you
very well know, there are sequences of well-defined events that all
players
follow more or less, between inserting a disc, and actually playing it.
Whichever of the phases is failing in the case of this particular player,
will be readily identifiable to the experienced eye. The only way that
could
then go tits up in terms of getting a fix, would be if the problem turned
out to be some really obscure electronic one, that isn't power supply
related. Such faults are actually exceedingly rare. In any case, as the
problem appears to be temperature related, even if it did turn out to be
electronic rather than mechanical or the laser itself, it should be able
to
be found without fuss using a hot air source, and a can of freezer.

As you many years' more experience than I in practical servicing, I ought
not to defend my position, as you are much more likely to be "right" than I.
However...

I'm fond of pointing out that the "correct" path of diagnosis is not asking
what's wrong, but of asking what isn't wrong.

The analytical point that needs attention is the 90-minutes needed before
the unit starts operating. * If it's a conventional heat-related problem,
why does it take so long to appear? Ergo, it (probably) isn't a conventional
heat-related problem.

Please note what I said...

"...unless the "warm up" problem [with this unit] is known and
well-understood, the technician is likely to spend a lot of expensive
service time tracking it down."

I stand by that. Most electronic equipment reaches operating temperature
within 20 minutes or so. I suspect there's either some screwy problem with
an IC that's going to require a speculative replacement, or there's a flaky
cap or two in the power supply. (I'm leaning to the latter, because I've
seen it in my own equipment.)

I would very much like to know what it turns out to be. If I'm wrong, I'll
publicly apologize. If right, I will restrain my glee.

* The OP hasn't told us what happens when he turns the working player off
for a few minutes, the on again