On Nov 1, 9:40*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 14:59:40 -0700 (PDT), Evan



wrote:
On Oct 31, 2:06*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 10:54:33 -0600, bud--
wrote:

The
"trough" makes good sense, because IF I put the panel onto the main
feed , the top of the panel is 4 inches lower than the old panel. If I
can have a trough 4 inches high and 3 1/3 inches deep, with knockout
holes made to match the knockouts on the panel at the bottom, and to
match the cable spacing at the top, I can enter my load cables into
the trough with the existing cable clamps, and either pass the wires
through the trough or splice them in the trough, then through to the
panel. If I match drill the trough to fit the panel and use plastic
bushings (made for the purpose - not hardware store grommets or any
such crap) in the holes to pass the wires through, I don't need any
other connectors between the trough and the panel, as long as the
trough is firmly connected to the panel??? I'd "gasket" the trough to
the panel or seal it on with Silicone, as well as bolting it.

I wouldn't seal the gutter to the panel.

Not sure what plastic bushings you are talking about. Might be perfectly
good.

For the closest connection I would use "chase nipples" from the gutter
into the panel through matching holes (as you plan to do).

*If I use "chase nipples" I require the plastic "anti-short" bushing
if the nipple is metal. Not required with plastic. Not enough room to
use 2" nipple. Total difference in "height" between old and new panel
is 4 inches. The "stub of 2 inch conduit" would have to be basically
just *the threads with a nut on either end.

Pete suggested a "stub of 2 inch conduit" to connect the gutter to the
panel. (Could also one or more 2" chase nipples.)

The panel only has provision for 1 2 incher in the load center end,
and one in the "Main" end.

Usually running a lot
of wires in conduit would be a problem because you have to derate the
current rating of the wire up to up to 65%. When the conduit is shorter
than 24" that does not apply. This may not be the code where you are. It
could make the installation much easier (may or may not require gutter
splices).

*How about a 4 inch long conduit nipple in each knockout, with the
connector that normally gets screwed onto the panel screwed into the
end of the conduit instead - so I end up with *6 3/4" stubs and 2 1"
stubs sticking out of the top of the panel with the "romex" connected
to the top, the individual wires from the "romex" entering the panel
via the conduit??? Then I just make a metal sheild panel to fit over
top, hiding the "Rube Goldberg" setup from open view?????

Sounds like your ideas are about a thousand times worse anything
I ever suggested...

It sounds way too much like you are being unreasonable about this
and that a skilled electrician has the ability to create new knock
outs
in a panel in many sizes -- they are not stuck using the ones that the
factory has provided...

Your "Rube Goldberg" set up would raise more flags than a couple
of professionally installed conduits running underneath a window,
but whatever your house man...

~~ Evan

*I just talked to the electric contractor that will LIKELY end up
doing the job,( who my Dad worked for the last few years of his
working life) given the latest information I'm getting Waterloo
North Hydro - and the offset conduit nipples would have met his
approval up until they were no longer allowed a few years ago. He said
it would work, would be VERY neet, totally safe,but sadly no longer
allowed, at least in Waterloo North.

*As for the knockouts - yes, you can create new holes, but not where
existing knockouts already exist but do not line up. *That's what
"greenley" punches are for.The problem is there is only about 4 square
inches of available "real estate" left to add holes.

Here is a *shocking* idea for you then, buy a panel enclosure with
no pre-punched knock outs in it and let the electrician make the
right sized holes in it where he needs them... Those kind of panels
are used in commercial applications all the time...

~~ Evan