RicodJour wrote:
Look at any of my tile jobs and you'll see they're all like that. It
takes longer, but I'm only doing it once. But it doesn't matter how
big the gap is, within reason, it matters how you approach caulking
the joint. Filling the joint, or attempting to bridge it, without
taking into account the caulk bead depth and dimensions is a surefire
recipe for failure.

...and stretching is only minimal;
consider how wide the fine crack is if the joint is grouted. We're
not talking about trampolines.

The water we have around here does not discriminate based on the size
of the gap. If there's a gap, the water will enter it. It's a
shower, eh?

As far as the amount of stretch - that's exactly the point. You don't
fight the material, you work with it. The caulk should be adhered at
both sides and the caulk thinner in the middle so it'll stretch the
way it is supposed to and not pull the caulk away from the tile on one
side.

Different ways to caulk correctly:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/BestPra...Figure1-38.jpg
http://www.inspectapedia.com/BestPra...Figure6-37.jpg

Carpentry, but it applies to tile as well:
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/wp-co...kerRod-1_1.jpg

Shows preferred caulk bead dimensions:
http://www.jlconline.com/isroot/jlco...01Mc51.eps.gif

This is all well established caulking practice. You appear to be
saying "it doesn't matter", but it does. A slow leak is not better
than a fast one. A big gap/leak will show up more quickly and is less
likely to do extensive damage. A small gap/leak can go undetected for
years, and then when it is finally discovered it is never good.
Reframing and mold remediation are the usual outcomes.


Excellent post! Very useful info.