On Nov 4, 8:34 pm, Norminn wrote:
On 11/4/2011 6:13 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 4, 4:50 pm, wrote:
On 11/4/2011 3:43 PM, chaniarts wrote:

corners are especially bad for grout cracks. they should have been
caulked instead. you probably need to remove the grout and caulk to get
a final solution.

No need to go overboard removing the grout...just enough for the caulk
to grab into (it sticks to the surface of the tile ennyhoo).

Gotta call you on that one. The caulk will stick, but it won't be
long lasting and it won't be gua-ran-teed to be 100% waterproof.
It's not all that much work to remove the old grout and clean out the
joint. Do it right, do it once.


Gotta call you on that one. My caulk will stick for a long time...clean
the meeting surfaces obsessively, wipe with full strength bleach, let
dry, caulk. Done (unless I smudge it and have to do it over) )

You're not arguing with me, you're arguing with the physical
properties of caulk. Caulk won't stretch in every direction equally
regardless of area of adhesion and thickness. Unless you control the
joint width and depth, and insure that the narrow dimension is normal
to the direction that the joint will move, the caulk will fail.
Murphy's Law requires it to fail in a way that is most unfavorable to
your desired outcome - waterproofing.

Some people just goober on the caulk right over the grout and bridge
the joint. That may work for a while, but it's a non-starter if you
want the job to last and don't want the caulk job to yell out,
"Amateur!" Caulked joints should be almost indistinguishable from a
grout line - uniform along it's length, color matched, and as close to
the standard grout line width as possible.

R