On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 19:11:24 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

chaniarts wrote:
On 10/24/2011 1:03 PM, micky wrote:
I need to glue glass to neoprene or maybe it is is some other black,
glossy, flexible, rubber-looking substance. What glue etc. should I
buy?

Is it worth trying to rough up the glass? If so, should I use
sandpaper, emery paper, etc?

I don't know yet if I can clamp the two things together.


My new-to-me 2000 Toyota Solara Convertible all of a sudden came
unglued at the top of the rear window. The window is glass and shows
no sign of any adhesive having been used. Maybe they used heat
alone?? It's in the 60's here for a few more days, and I have a heat
gun if you think that will help.

Most of these use the PVB that is sandwiched between the two panes of
glass that make up the window.
It is then bonded to the top. The catch is that it doesn't really hold
up that well exposed to air/cleaners/acid rain and such.

This might be the original window, 11 years old. I've found that tops
last me about 7 years and windows last through 2 tops. )The top still
looks very good,)

My own experience has been that none of the 3 convertible windows I've
had break had iiuc an inner layer. That is, all three shatttered
into many pieces about the size of a raisin. The first was a 65
Pontiac that got broken during the middle of the day, maybe by kids
playing ball. The pieces were all over the lower boot. Then I had a
73 Buick with a scissors top and a guy was jabbering at me and the top
was screwed up, the sides were out of sync, and I broke the window
myself lowering the top**, and the third came from an 88 LeBaron, I
had a new top and window put on and I had him save me the window, so I
coudl see for myself how hard they are.

First, they all flex some, amazingly since they are glass***. I
stsood the window in a garbage can and whacked it about 10 times, each
time harder, until finally I used a hammer iirc and wacked it really
hard and it finally borke. Like the other two, all the pieces
separated. I don't think they were even very sharp, some how.

***I think maybe my home and storm windows flex too. I'm not sure. No
thermopane (except the sliding doors), separate windows, and I'm
pretty sure one bends, which would mean they all do.


**Scissors tops were only used on Buicks and Cadillacs I think (and
Chevys or Olds?), from '73 to 76, when GM thought that the NTSB was
going to require roofs to be strong enough to support the car. They
were a terrible design and the NTSB never requried that. So thiis is
not an issue many people face.

Thanks.



The other piece would be under tension if I glued it just where it
was, but if I leave 1/2" not glued, it will reach.

Alternatively, I could maybe find some thick black plastic sheeting
and glue one end to the window and the other end to the neoprene.
Which is better?

Maybe I can put a couple pillows on top of the rear seat, and lay a
2x4 (or 1x6 which I would have to buy if you think it's worth it) on
top of the pillows, and gently lower the top so that the neoprene/
glass rests on the wood board, and then put weights on top of the
glass while it sets. Good idea?


Every other convertible I've had had a vinyl "lower boot" under the
rear window, which safely collected the water. I pioneered putting a
drain hose in the boot, when I r ealized leaks could not be avoided.
Years later, the '84 Lebaron came with drain hoses factory installed,
and the 88 and 95 had them also. Unfortunately, the lower well in
this car isn't vinyl but is that fuzzy-covered cardboard, and it won't
do well if it gets wet, plus it will leak into the areas below it. I
think Toyota didn't plan ahead.

Thanks.

If I was doing the repair I would probably make up a frame out of
stainless that would clamp the top material and a lip that the glass
could be bonded to with urethane.