On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:13:58 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

On 10/24/2011 1:03 PM, micky wrote:
I need to glue glass to neoprene or maybe it is is some other black,
glossy, flexible, rubber-looking substance. What glue etc. should I
buy?

Is it worth trying to rough up the glass? If so, should I use
sandpaper, emery paper, etc?

I don't know yet if I can clamp the two things together.


My new-to-me 2000 Toyota Solara Convertible all of a sudden came
unglued at the top of the rear window. The window is glass and shows
no sign of any adhesive having been used. Maybe they used heat
alone?? It's in the 60's here for a few more days, and I have a heat
gun if you think that will help.

The other piece would be under tension if I glued it just where it
was, but if I leave 1/2" not glued, it will reach.

Alternatively, I could maybe find some thick black plastic sheeting
and glue one end to the window and the other end to the neoprene.
Which is better?

Maybe I can put a couple pillows on top of the rear seat, and lay a
2x4 (or 1x6 which I would have to buy if you think it's worth it) on
top of the pillows, and gently lower the top so that the neoprene/
glass rests on the wood board, and then put weights on top of the
glass while it sets. Good idea?


Every other convertible I've had had a vinyl "lower boot" under the
rear window, which safely collected the water. I pioneered putting a
drain hose in the boot, when I r ealized leaks could not be avoided.
Years later, the '84 Lebaron came with drain hoses factory installed,
and the 88 and 95 had them also. Unfortunately, the lower well in
this car isn't vinyl but is that fuzzy-covered cardboard, and it won't
do well if it gets wet, plus it will leak into the areas below it. I
think Toyota didn't plan ahead.

Thanks.

my corvette convertible glass window came unattached from the top, which
is some kind of plastic coated fabric cloth.

i used 3m VHB tape. it comes in a roll, is double sided, and very
sticky. if you put it somewhere, it will NOT be coming off or allow you
to reposition it.

Well, based on your experience and what you say and what I've been
reading now, it sounds pretty good.

Does it have a liner on both sides, so I can cut it to fit without it
getting stuck on the scissors? And so I can put it on with less
trouble? (I would make my own liner for the unlined side, but I
guess it would stick to the tape!)

And is there any way I can get some without spending 72 dollars?
Although I will if I have to.

Now much did you buy, and if it wasn't that much, where did you buy
it? Maybe they only sell one kind, which would make it easy for me.

Also, there seems to be at least 15 kinds. Black and clear (and
white), different thicknesses, conformable, and bond specific
surfaces.
http://www.packagingtapedepot.com/3m...hbondtape.aspx
Do you know what exactly you used? I'm sorry I'm such a pain.
If it weren't so expensive, I wouldn't ask so many questions.

3M has this page:
http://services.shop3m.com/search/?k...952-8TRTQKPDT3
I clicked on sort by price, but it didnt' sort by price. It had a
few reolls for under 50 dollars. Also it shows non-tapes, but I
couldn't get rid of them.

Googling, I find a lot of people trying to find small amounts, and
other people recommending 3M molding tape, but you have to let it set
overnight, without any moving. I doubt I can do that. .



The 72 dollar roll is narrow too. 1/4 inch? I'd rather have a shorter
roll of wider stuff. If I run two narrow strips side by side, and
they don't match perfectly, do you think it will be very visible
(very? at all?) through the glass (I won't buy white) ?


Thanks a lotl

P.S. Office Depot has it, but it costs between $700 and $2500!!