Bob S.

I read all the posts and I didn;t see anyone nitpicking, nor did I see
anyone looking for a fight. Look, the miter guage issue is an aside. Let's
just forget that.

Silvan ALREADY KNOWS how to adjust his saw, you can tell by reading his
post. His only real problem is that, he gets his adjustment correct but then
it changes when he tightens down the hardware. This is not uncommon. About
16 years ago I adjusted mine. I bet it took me 3 hours. Once I got it where
I wanted it, I'm almost embarrassed to say, I never checked it again
(because I didn;t wnat to go through the hassle again). It performs
beautifully for me, so I don;t mess with it or check it. The point of this
little "aside" is only to say I can sympathize with Silvan's frustration.

--
Americans

"Bob S." wrote in message
.. .
Larry,

If he used a used a try square to align the miter head to the blade, the
head would be at one position (angle to the blade) and when it's holding a
pencil, it's used at the front of the blade and then at the rear. The
difference will be more/less as the gauge is moved along the blade. With
the miter aligned to the blade while it's out of adjustment and then using
it to try and align the slot to the blade is not going to work.

He could turn the miter gauge upside down in the slot and align the head
with the front edge of the table. Then reverse it and put it in the slot
upside down again at the rear edge and see if there's a difference. If
so,
then the slot is not perpendicular to the edges referenced.

So saying it doesn't make a difference is not exactly correct - right?

Bob S.


"Lawrence R Horgan" wrote in message
...
Seems to me it wouldn't matter how the miter gauge was aligned. Even if
you
had the guage at, say 29 degrees, the difference between the pencil
point
and the blade at the front or back of the blade would be the same.