Higgs Boson wrote:
..

As to your questions:

"How long in place?" - A bit over a year.
"Wear?" - It doesn't. It gets less abuse than the floors and the
floors still look pristine.
"Clean?" - Just like Formica or tile. You wipe it with a damp rag.
"Hot things?" - Don't know. Earlier experiments with scrap showed it
will char when heated with a cigarette lighter. Therefore, I'm
cautious with hot things. Have a couple of trivets next to the stove.
"Stains?" - It doesn't stain. Coffee, ketchup, etc., wipe right up.
I'm serious - they should make body armor out of this stuff.
"Scratches?" - Again, we're careful to use a cutting board and such.
Earlier experiments on scrap showed it was impervious to a nail,
rasp, or dragging a saw blade across it.

You didn't ask about water. In the leadup to this project I miked the
thickness on a couple of scrap strips then let them sit in a glass
of water for a MONTH. After that time, the resulting measurements
were within the limits of my micrometer, 0.002" ! This stuff is
water-irrelevant.

What will tax your ingenuity is 45-degree routing to get the
down-trim pieces to fit. Also constructing the back-splash requires
some brain-power and measurements.

Still, I'm pleased with the results.

Hey,thanks for the detailed reply. That really sounds exciting. I
am SO tired of doing a miserable job regrouting existing tile.
Also everything surrounding the sink is chipped. I have the spare
tiles, including bullnose, but not the expertise, and don't want to
blow $$ on a handyman like the one who screwed up the original
installation. (That was done by a Nazi. He did good work. No, I
didn't know he was one when I hired him...)

What you said about down-trim and back splash gives me beaucoup
pause.

Can't visualize how that would work in place of bullnose tiles...?
Some kind of coving?

Appreciate your input.


The laminate has some thickness, maybe 5/16". On edge is looks like a thin
layer of the good stuff followed by a dark wood substitute. I didn't want
this ugliness to be visible, so routing the edge of the horizontal plate and
the top edge of the 2" verticle trim piece to 45 degrees seemed the best
solution.

I considered using a piece of floor transition for the vertical trim. In my
mind, this transition piece would "hook" over the counter edge and hang
down, resulting in a small "bump" at the counter's edge. This, of course,
would prevent sweeping all the detritus from the counter to the floor. This
was my fall-back plan if the routing of many angles proved to be too
tiresome.

Everything was glued down with 3M spray adhesive.