Seems to me it wouldn't matter how the miter gauge was aligned. Even if you
had the guage at, say 29 degrees, the difference between the pencil point
and the blade at the front or back of the blade would be the same.
Silvan, did you try tapping hardwood wedges between the trunions as you
tightened the bolts back down? Maybe you could get it moved over enough so
that, even though you might still have an .014 gap or so, at least the blade
would be further from the fence at the back of the blade. I'm not saying
that it should be, just that it would be better that way it seems. Ideally
(and of course by reading your post I can tell you already know this), the
blade should be (nearly) perfectly aligned with the miter guage slots, and
any desired variance between the blade and fence should be adjusted at the
fence.
Larry
"Silvan" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to line up my new saw as best I can without buying any fancy
dongles to take ultra precise measurements.
Today's project was getting the blade lined up parallel to the miter
slots.
I sharpened a pencil to a tiny point, marked a tooth, then clamped the
pencil to my miter gauge. Moving pencil and tooth to the back of the
table, there was a significant gap.
After dicking around with the six bolts and wiggling around on the saw
guts
for a couple of hours, the best I was able to accomplish is that there is
still a 0.014" gap between the pencil point and the marked tooth at the
back of the table. I could never manage to get it closer than that and
keep it there while the bolts were tightened back up.
Unfortunately, the gap indicates that the blade is closer to the rip fence
at the back than at the front, which is really seriously not cool. Still,
I don't see what else I can do about it. This was the product of much
fiddling, and it was hard to get it even this close. (BTW, the rip fence
is to the right of the blade. I was using the left miter slot.)
I don't have much lumber on hand to do test cuts with, but I tried a piece
of 4/4 red oak about 3' long. I ripped a strip 1" wide and measured it at
various points with dial calipers. It's damn close. The difference in
measurement from point to point is less than I can measure without a
micrometer, though there *is* some minute variation. Theer were no burn
marks at all, no binding, no feeling of impending kickback, and it was a
very smooth cut.
So what does the Wreck say? Keep dicking with it or leave it alone until
I
see burn marks and other indications of a serious alignment problem?
Maybe
try some 6/4 or larger and see how that changes things...
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/