Gunner Asch wrote:

Stick on a liquid tight box with a pair of liquid tight couplers for
your splice box, then cover everything that water can get into..with
silicone caulk. Above the "bouncing rock line"

Wire wheel under each light fixture and install new bolts, studs or
screws for the grounds. Make sure all wireing is secure using BLACK tie
wraps of a decent size.

Autozone and most other autoparts stores sell flat 4 or 6 wire cable if
you want to go that far. Ive not seen yours..so I cant say if its
necessary to pull new wire or not. Id guess its not..but..shrug.


I prefer TFFN to the flat wires. I wrap them in Scotch 66 tape to
keep them together, and add some extra protection.


Oh..and be sure to put at least 2x the wire length you need to hook up
to your truck, then fold neatly out of the way and secure. Someday you
will have to again replace the plug...so its nice to have enough wire
tucked away on the frame so you dont have to rewire the whole thing
again.


I like to use one of the three or four foot extensions so I can
replace it in a hurry, or remove it and conceal the trailer's connector
when I have to leave it somewhere. It's less likely to be stolen if
they think it's defective.

I used 3/8" CPVC pipe to each of the lights on my last trailer, along
with a PVC waterproof electrical boxes & covers. I used 1/2" Schedule
40 conduit between the boxes, and reducers for the CPVC. One box near
the tongue, and the other at the rear, under the frame and out of sight.

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.