Thanks for the comprehensive write-up. I printed it out and saved it.

I have a few very basic questions, if you don't mind my asking.

One is about the car inverter idea. Does that mean that I could buy a car
inverter and use that to power an oil or gas fired home heating system
during a power outage? -- and/or maybe a few lights and the refridgerator?

Another is about the possibility of buying a portable generator. I have
been thinking about buying a portable gasoline generator like the ones that
I see contractors using on job sites where there is no power. I don't know
anything about them, but it seems like that would work as a way to power an
oil or gas fired home heating system during a power outage, and/or maybe
some lights and the fridge. I would have to look and see how much they cost
and what size to get. Since it would be portable, I'm thinking I could
bring it to wherever it may be needed during an outage (my home, my
relative's home, etc). If I did that, could you suggest what size or
type/brand to consider getting?

And, what does "pto" mean in the part you wrote about tractors etc?

Thanks.

HeyBub wrote:
[email to a blog (Instapundit) ]


Having enjoyed about one-third of our lives on generator power, we
decided to enter the discussion.


I have more than 40 years experience in electric power generation for
prime power applications (seagoing vessels, forward operating bases,
field hospitals) and critical standby power (healthcare facilities,
emergency services, credit card transactions).

My wife has invested a similar amount of time performing research at
sea, and in remote locations, on generator power.


We met shortly after 9-11, and we watched the Pentagon smolder for
several weeks.

Note to deniers: It really happened!


This e-mail is my contribution to the generator discussion.

First, to all those who want a cheap, convenient way to charge their
cell phones and other portable electronics: every motor vehicle
includes a one kilowatt (1kw) alternator for battery charging.


Some vehicles are slightly less (a skinny kilowatt) others are quite
a bit more (2kw) but all vehicles have a battery charging alternator.

The best way to charge portable electronics is to idle your vehicle
and use 12 volt DC chargers.


To charge your cell phone, you do not even need to start your
vehicle. Just plug the cell phone charger into your vehicle and let
it charge.
To charge larger items, start your vehicle and let it idle.


To operate larger items which require 120 volt AC power, such as your
computer UPS, a drip coffee maker, or a small microwave, use a 1200
watt (1.2kw) inverter - available everywhere for less than $100.

Most vehicles today will run a 1200 watt inverter indefinitely while
idling, but you may need to turn on the air conditioner (which
increases the engine idle) or turn up the idle speed (not legal - do
not do this) to make sure the alternator is putting out full power.


Also, the family minivan (or coupe, pickup truck, or SUV) is the best
survival pod ever invented - heat, air conditioning, lights, etc. You
already own it, and the fuel to run it is negligible compared to
buying, maintaining, and feeding a generator.

Even more important, you can drive the vehicle to a fuel point to
refuel it, and charge the battery while driving to and from the fuel
point.

If you need more power than your vehicle produces, then and only then,
consider a generator.

We can discuss how to size a genset for home use, based on how many
items you desire to run during a power outage, and how much fuel you
are willing to store and consume.


You can use a portable generator, or install a standby generator.

Whatever you do, please follow all safety precautions with respect to
electrical hazards, thermal hazards, and fume hazards.


If you use a portable generator, please use extension cords to power
your loads - do not energize your home wiring unless you have
installed an Underwriters Laboratory (UL) listed transfer switch!

I will discuss transfer switches later in this article.


If you choose to install a standby generator, and you live in an
urban, or dense suburban area, a propane (bottle gas) or natural gas
(city gas) powered system is the most popular and cost effective way
to go. It is also the quietest.

Note well: City gas is often shut off during natural disasters.
Propane is stored on your property, and can be stored indefinitely.

If you live in a rural area, you can go with a propane or a diesel
unit, or if you have a tractor, a pto-driven genset.

For almost all tractor owners, I recommend a pto-driven genset. If
you buy a Winco, Onan, or similar high-quality pto-driven genset, you
can pass it on to your grandchildren. It will never wear out.


The beauty of a pto-driven genset is that many tractor owners are
already adept at maintaining their tractors. Also, you can always
find someone to repair a tractor, or, if you really need to, you can
buy another tractor, new or used, almost any time.

It is extremely important to have a generator big enough to start and
run your rotating loads, and to hold frequency and voltage as near
constant as possible.

All rotating loads - well pump, pool pump, air conditioner/heat pump
compressor and fan motor, refrigerator and freezer compressors and fan
motors - require 60 hz alternating current (AC) to operate at the
correct, constant speed, and require full voltage (120 or 240
depending on the motor) to operate at the correct current under load.


Incorrect voltage, and incorrect or varying frequency, can lead to
failure of rotating equipment.

Let me put that more plainly - a badly regulated generator will burn
up expensive motors!


Home electronics (tv, computer, etc.) are not as sensitive to
voltage, and are relatively insensitive to frequency (they all have
power supplies that convert AC to regulated DC) but they can be
damaged by very low or high voltage.

Most important is your transfer switch.


After the transfer switch is installed, and inspected by your county
building inspector, send a copy of the electrical inspection to your
insurance agent - 2 reasons:

1. Liability - If anyone is ever injured or killed while working to
restore power on your distribution grid, you will have proof that
there is no way it was a backfeed from your generator.


2. Risk Reduction - If you ever have an electrical fire in your
house, you will have proof that the transfer switch was properly
installed and inspected.

My advice is to install a 200 amp (or whatever size your home
electrical service is) manual transfer switch.


That way you will be able to use any lights, anywhere in your house,
including in your basement, regardless of whether you power your
house with a 5kw or a 50kw genset.

I do not recommend an automatic transfer switch for home use.


You want to determine that the power really is out, and will be out
for more than a few minutes (or hours).

You want to start your genset and make sure it is running right - all
engine gauges (oil pressure, battery voltage, coolant or cylinder
temperature) and generator gauges (voltage, FREQUENCY, current)
registering correctly, and then and only then transfer the load.


If the engine parameters are incorrect, you run the risk of
destroying the engine. If the generator parameters are incorrect, you
run the risk of destroying expensive items in your home.

Even if you never have a power outage, throw your transfer switch
once a year to make sure it moves.


Also, open it once a year and blow out the insects. Leave a piece of
no-pest strip or a livestock ear tag with pyrethrins in there to keep
it insect free.

I recommend testing a home generator twice each month.


Just connect an electric stove or similar load to it, and run it
under load for 30 minutes.

If you can start it and run it every 2 weeks, and it takes a full
load, you can depend on it for a power outage when you transfer the
house load using your manual transfer switch.


Takeaway - Generating your own power during an outage requires serious
investment in time and money, and significant fuel and maintenance
expenses.
At present prices, we spend about $90/day for fuel and oil changes
during extended power outages.


We can discuss this stuff further if you like.

We have a 200 amp transfer switch to transfer our house between the
electric grid and generator power, and a second 100 amp transfer
switch to transfer between main generator and auxiliaries. Main
generator is a 15kw 1800 rpm diesel. Auxiliaries are 25kw Winco pto
unit (more power than either of our tractors can provide, but
superior motor starting capability), 8.5kw 3600 rpm gasoline powered
welder, 3.5kw 3600 rpm gasoline powered welder, 2kw 1800 rpm
continuous rated gasoline powered genset (perfect for overnight
refrigeration and entertainment loads, if we don't need heat or air
conditioning).