On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:46:55 -0400, Marilyn & Bob
wrote:

On 9/16/2011 7:45 AM, wrote:
On Sep 16, 7:10 am, Doug
wrote:
On 9/16/2011 1:55 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Want to install several X10 relay switches in the house to turn on lights remotely. This would obviate my walking across the room in the dark to get to the light switch.

Problem: The X10 switch/relay requires full power at the wall switch location. Several of my switches
have only a hot leg coming into the box with no neutral. X10 docs. recommend simply running a neutral
wire into the box.

That's a Code violation. *All* conductors are required to be in the same
raceway, conduit, or cable.

Question: Most of my wiring is within the attic and some of the switches are on the exterior walls.
These locations are inaccessible from the attic since this is where the roof meets the ceiling ergo
providing mere inches of crawl space. It would be much easier to run the neutral wire from below
(I have a generous 42" high crawl space).

Then run an entirely new cable.

Question: Does this neutral have to come from the same circuit?

Yes.

Can I simply come from any circuit (even a separate new circuit) and run a white neutral wire
to each switch box?

No.

Does it have to be from the same phase? X10 docs. do mention that if not from the same phase,
then the phases can be joined at the box.

That's not a meaningful concept with respect to the neutral.



All comments, advice and suggestions appreciated.

No disrespect intended, but you should hire an electrician to do this
for you. You don't appear to have sufficient knowledge to do this safely.

One possible solution is to use one of the X10 light switches
that don't use a neutral. They only work with incandescent
bulbs, but since he only mentions controlling lights that would
seem to be at least a possibility that would save a hell of a
lot of work.

The basic X-10 wall switch (WS467) does NOT require a neutral in order
to function. Its major problem is that it won't work with CFLs.
However, if you are concerned about energy consumption, it WILL work
with LED bulbs. While LED bulbs are quite expensive, they are a lot
cheaper than rewiring and require zero effort. And you'll save the
money back since WS467 switches are a lot cheaper than the CFL capable
ones that require the neutral. This seems to me to be the simplest,
safe way to proceed.
Or throw a single 7 watt ( or higher)incandescent bulb in the circuit
with as many CFLs as you want.